Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Bolts with no head removal

Old 09-05-2009, 08:32 AM
  #11  
Norm Peterson
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You might get lucky if you're drilling it out in steps by using a left-hand drill bit after you already have made a decent diameter hole.

They really do make such a thing, though I doubt you'd find them at HD or Lowes.


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Old 09-05-2009, 09:06 AM
  #12  
2+2GT
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Originally Posted by 67mustangreg
nobody's been in this boat before???
I have, many times, not just generically, but with snapped-off Mustang bumper-to-frame bolts, exactly as you have. My advice was based on a trick that works every time.
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:10 AM
  #13  
cmanf
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If you have a cut off wheel grind a deep slot in across the bolts making them now screws. Shoot your best penetrating lube you have then use the larges body straight screwdriver on the slot you just cut. I would use a nail bar on a bolt that big.
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:29 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 67mustangreg
external being?
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100512
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:57 AM
  #15  
67mustangreg
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Hey, so I discussed it with my local mustang shop and a friend in cali who works at a mustang shop. My shop told me they should cut out the section of frame and replace it with new. My friend in cali says I should just weld the bumper bracket on. I'm leaning towards the 2nd. then, if later it need to be fixed the frame can just be cut out anyway. seems legit to me.

good idea? bad idea? I don't want this one little thing to halt my recent spurt of enthusiasm about working on my dream car.
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:07 AM
  #16  
JamesW
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If you're willing to do something like that, then I'd suggest just grinding the bolts flush and redrilling the bracket/frame in a different location. You can buy nutplates to weld into the new hole in the frame.

we thought based on your question was that your desire was to remove the bolts.
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:06 PM
  #17  
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With the one sticking out you might be able to try the old wax trick. Heat it up with a torch and melt a candle on it and the wax gets into the threads. Then use some vise grips to remove it. Don't know you well the wax will get into the threads when it is horizontal though.
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:50 PM
  #18  
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You will find if you try to drill those out that the nut is actually attached to a piece of spring steel and not directly to the frame. When you push on the drill it will push the nut back into the hole. This makes it very difficult to drill, to either drill and tap it or use a screw extractor. If you are good with a cutting torch you could blow it our with the torch. We would do it on cast iron manifolds with broken studs years ago. Or grind the rest of the bolt flush, use a hammer and punch to push the nuts out of the way and then weld a nut into the hole. Could heat the bolt cherry red and then let it cool and see if you can get it with some good vice grips. Personnally I would try 2+2's ideas first.
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