SuperHoss

I've got a '66 GT with a 4 speed. What is the best way to get the pedals out...from what I see, taking the steering column and shaft out seems to work. I've taken the air-box out but it hasn't helped me. Can anyone help me out with this? I've got the pedat brackets unbolted but how do I get them out?

OCHOHILL

The brake and clutch pedals should share a shaft. That shaft should have a pin in one end. The shaft is attached to the clutch pedal and slides to the dirvers side. The brake should drop out and then you can remove the clutch arm. Be sure to disconnet the master cylinder arm and brake light switch before pullin the shaft.

2+2GT

Why are you doing this? It matters, because I have done this many times and i could save you a lotta work and maybe some danger, too.

SuperHoss

I have the engine and instrument cluster out and decided that it was time to replace the bushings, bearings and everything else that moves on the pedals. If the trend from the rest of the car is consistent on the pedals; they probably have factory parts on them.

2+2GT

Ah ha. OK, if you have the fresh air vent out already, you need only remove the two bolts above the handbrake to get the pedals out. Unless the zinc bushings are damaged, you can leave the pedal bracket in. All you need to do is slide the clutch pedal out to the left, dropping the brake pedal.

First, disconnect the clutch pushrod from the pedal. Grab the pedal with both hands, and lower it to the floor. Remove the pedal up-limit stop from the pedal support. Grab the pedal with both hands, and raise it to the dash. The assist spring will fall out. Remove the clutch pedal retainer, and remove the clutch pedal. If the zinc grommets are intact, install new nylon bushings, grease them with white lithium, and install the pedals.

If the zinc bushings are not OK, but the steel bracket is, knock them out with a punch, and replace them with either the solid steel or roller kit (with the roller kit you don't need nylon bushings). One tip, the washers supplied with the kit are WAY too thick, and must be ground down about 1/16". Don't even try to use the wavy washers that come in the kit. Call Drake and complain, I have.

If the clutch pedal shaft is damaged, it will have to be replaced. For that the peened end needs be ground down, and punched out, and the new one pressed in and welded.

Then, the pedal must be installed properly, also the spring bracket on the pedal support. The pedal up-limit stop on the pedal bracket must NOT be installed. Pull the pedal up toward the dash, until the spring bracket and spring hook on the pedal are close enough to put the spring on with zero tension. Place the nylon spring insulators on the bracket and pedal, and install the spring into the two nylon insulators. Carefully lower the pedal, until the weight of the pedal holds the spring and insulators in place. Grasp the pedal with both hands, and lower it to the floor. Since it is an assist spring, it will try very hard to slam to the floor. While the pedal is on the floor, install the up limit stop on the pedal support bracket. Grasp the pedal with both hands, and lift it up to the stop. Since it travels over-center, it will try to hit the stop. Now install the upper clutch rod.

Those readers who have a 67-68 will have to remove the clutch pedal shaft retainer, and slide the pedal to the left when raising it toward the dash, because the pedal stop is part of the pedal support bracket, and cannot be removed. You may need to loosen the handle bracket on the e-brake to get enough clearance. You should also have a rubber stop for the up-limit. If it is rock hard or missing, get a new one.

SuperHoss

Thanks man, that is what I needed. I already have the roller kit for the bushings so i plan on taking the entire assembly out.