bigbadbenw777

I am about ready to redo my entire front suspension.

I would greatly appreciate all of your critique, opinions, feedback, etc....

65 Mustang 351windsor C4 Auto-power steering: I like to drive my car hard, but also want my gf and famimly to enjoy a comfy cruise downtown

My intentions:

Open Tracker UCA/LCA
Open Tracker roller spring perches
620 Coil Springs
rubber coil spring seats? (or should i do poly??!)
Edelbrock IAS Shocks all the way around
Export and monte carlo bars
Global west tubular subframe connectors
Chockstang center link/tie rods/power steering slave cylinder and control valve
new idler arm and bracket
flaming river gear box
stock strut rods with polyurethane bushings
1" sway bar polyurethane bushings

what do you think?
suggest swap different parts?

Thanks again for contributing

tx65coupe

That sounds like a good start to me.

I don't think you need poly coil spring insulators, rubber should be fine. I could go either way on that one.

I have done nearly the same thing as what your talking about doing to your car. I have the 1 inch lowering springs with the 600 rate and think they are great. I don't have the roller perches though. Thats one thing I would like to have so maybe I'll do that later.

JamesW

Unless you plan on tracking the car, you're spending waaaayyyy too much money.

2+2GT

I think urethane strut bushings are a horrible idea. Elswhere, OK, as long as you don't mind a harsh ride. You see, stiff urethane bushes on the strut force the strut to flex, which it's not designed to do, with predictable results:



I have to agree with JamesW on the rest. I have export brace/Monte Carlo bar, 1" upper arm drop, 1" front bar, KYB Gas a Just, GT front and rear springs, and Traction Masters. Only the sway bar end links and Traction Master busings are urethane. I have autocrossed the car quite successfully, which is a lot harder driving than anything legal on the street.

Jonk67

As stated above I wouldn't do the poly strut rod bushings, strut rod needs to move more freely in an up/down arch. The problem with the stock rubber ones is that they compress during braking/accelaration. If you plan to change from rubber I'd go with adjustable strut rods, you can buy them or make them yourself:
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/adjustable
you might want to read his suspension article it's a nice starter for ideas:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101

I didn't see you mention the 1" Shelby/Arning drop it's a good mod while you have all the suspension off, puts the tires flatter to the ground.
Will you be doing the rear next? If your leafs are original they're probably weak. New 4 1/2leafs on mine had a big impact on the front steering as they rear didn't push the nose of the car opposite on sweeping turns (interstate on/off ramps).
Jon

Starfury

Rather than a Flaming River box, you may consider having Chokostang rebuild your factory box. There's nothing wrong with a good rebuilt gearbox.

How hard do you intend to drive the car? I like to think that I drive my car harder than most people here, and my setup is very similar to what you've got listed. I think you'll be happy in particular with the Edelbrock shocks and roller perches.

tx65coupe

Yeah, I have a rebuilt steering box. I was considering the Flaming River, but it is rather pricey.

Before you think about the Shelby drop, do you have Granada front disc brakes? I heard it was not a good idea to mix the two, due to geometry issues.

bigbadbenw777

Forgot to mention the 1" shelby drop. ANd I will also replace the Coil Spring pads to rubber (same with the strut rods) the adjustable struts are a little out of my price range. I do not have granada front disc brakes. How do you like your rebuilt steering box TX65 coupe? I like to drive my car pretty hard (burnouts-gettin the back end out-taking freeway entrances hard-etc. its pretty hard not to stomp on the gas when youre backed with a 351! anyways, jonk67- I have the grab a trak 5 leaf springs with the poly racing shackles in the rear. I love the ride and it sets up the front suspension up so it can do its job. I thought the 5 leafs were going to be way to stiff but I am really satisfied with them.

Jamesw------Where should I save money, what would you do instead, what kind of set up are you running?

JamesW

First off... nothing against any of the brand names and the quality of their products... This is just my opinion.

My intentions:

Open Tracker UCA/LCA - Great products, a little overkill for most street cars.
Open Tracker roller spring perches - I built my own with Daze kit for < $50
620 Coil Springs - good
rubber coil spring seats? (or should i do poly??!) - rubber is fine.
Edelbrock IAS Shocks all the way around - way overpriced. KYBs will do for street
Export and monte carlo bars - build your own for 1/2 the price
Global west tubular subframe connectors - Go with Daze or others for half price
Chockstang center link/tie rods/power steering slave cylinder and control valve
new idler arm and bracket - no thoughts
flaming river gear box - overpriced. Go with a rebuild from Stanger53
stock strut rods with polyurethane bushings - good
1" sway bar polyurethane bushings - overkill. Go with GT sway bar

tx65coupe

I agree with most of what James has said. I would rather just buy the export brace and monte carlo bar. They aren't expensive.

I like my rebuilt steering box. Its also a quick ratio like the power steering cars have, but I have manual steering. I am happy with it.

I have these subframe connectors. They are bolted and welded. I was told by several Mustang shops that the bolt on ones fit better than the weld on. I don't know if thats true since they look nearly the same to me.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.asp?pn=SFC1