1968 289 **RUN'N EXTREMELY HOT**
07-20-2005, 10:58 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 14
1968 289 **RUN'N EXTREMELY HOT**
PLEASE... PLEASE... HELP.. 289 RUNNING EXTREMELY HOT.. EXTREMELY QUICK
I have a 68 289 that I took and had bored out .30. I had put an eldebrock performer cam in but it was soft and the lobes wore down within the first hour. I had a new cam (stock specs) reinstalled w/ new lifters. I have confirmed the water pump is pushing plenty of water, the head gaskets are on correctly, the carb is not running lean, the motor is timed correctly, i have a new 3core radiator. There is no exhaust leak back into the coolant. The oil is fine, no coolant in the oil.
When attempting to break in the new cam I run the car at 2000rpm for 30 minutes. I can only run for 4 minutes and have to cut the car off because the heat gauge needle is almost buried HOT(reading is correct).
I learned today that the 289 for a 68 is max bored at .40. My research and "consultant" on Ford Motors informed me that my heat problem was due to the fact that the 200hp 289 block for a 289 bored at .30 put quick heat to the water around the cylinders. The coolant ports are in the back of the head and the steam ports around the cyclinders were small. He said to reduce the heat I would need to "drill" out the steam ports and potentially create front ports for block and head.
The solution means I would have more water to metal, therefore transferring more heat from the block & head to more water. He said around 1970 or 1971 that Ford started getting blocks from Mexico and the cyclinder walls were thicker and capable of being bored more than .40.
Has anyone ever had or heard of this scenario and know a resolve. I need hardcore knowledge. If anyone can help I'll name my firstborn after you. I have done a ton of work to merely have a beautiful "garage ornament". I've taken the motor out twice and put it back twice in the last 2 months.
I have a 68 289 that I took and had bored out .30. I had put an eldebrock performer cam in but it was soft and the lobes wore down within the first hour. I had a new cam (stock specs) reinstalled w/ new lifters. I have confirmed the water pump is pushing plenty of water, the head gaskets are on correctly, the carb is not running lean, the motor is timed correctly, i have a new 3core radiator. There is no exhaust leak back into the coolant. The oil is fine, no coolant in the oil.
When attempting to break in the new cam I run the car at 2000rpm for 30 minutes. I can only run for 4 minutes and have to cut the car off because the heat gauge needle is almost buried HOT(reading is correct).
I learned today that the 289 for a 68 is max bored at .40. My research and "consultant" on Ford Motors informed me that my heat problem was due to the fact that the 200hp 289 block for a 289 bored at .30 put quick heat to the water around the cylinders. The coolant ports are in the back of the head and the steam ports around the cyclinders were small. He said to reduce the heat I would need to "drill" out the steam ports and potentially create front ports for block and head.
The solution means I would have more water to metal, therefore transferring more heat from the block & head to more water. He said around 1970 or 1971 that Ford started getting blocks from Mexico and the cyclinder walls were thicker and capable of being bored more than .40.
Has anyone ever had or heard of this scenario and know a resolve. I need hardcore knowledge. If anyone can help I'll name my firstborn after you. I have done a ton of work to merely have a beautiful "garage ornament". I've taken the motor out twice and put it back twice in the last 2 months.
07-21-2005, 01:40 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Pittsburg, KS
Posts: 317
RE: 1968 289 **RUN'N EXTREMELY HOT**
ya, check your thromostat, fan, water pump maybe even your heads. Don't blown head gaskets or cracked or warped heads have a tendancy to make an engine run hot? I'm no mechanic by anymeans, but I always check out the little stuff first.
07-21-2005, 02:27 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,445
RE: 1968 289 **RUN'N EXTREMELY HOT**
Figuring that there are hundreds of thousands of old small block v8's out there that are punched out to 0.030" or more, and work just fine, I would be more inclined to think you have an issue.
When the old cam went flat, where did all the metal go? Did you dissassemble the engine and clean out all the swarf? Recheck all your bearing clearances?, dissassemble, clean and inspect the oil pump? Flush the galleys?
I've rebuilt several engines over the years where people stuck in cams then didn't break them in correctly (not saying that is your case as it sounds like you know the proper procedure). When the metal swarf gets into all the bearings & pump, there is no more clearance, and the parisitic drag will easily over heat the engine.
When the old cam went flat, where did all the metal go? Did you dissassemble the engine and clean out all the swarf? Recheck all your bearing clearances?, dissassemble, clean and inspect the oil pump? Flush the galleys?
I've rebuilt several engines over the years where people stuck in cams then didn't break them in correctly (not saying that is your case as it sounds like you know the proper procedure). When the metal swarf gets into all the bearings & pump, there is no more clearance, and the parisitic drag will easily over heat the engine.
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