Performance mods on a 66 w/ 302
03-08-2010, 04:27 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: TN
Posts: 31
Performance mods on a 66 w/ 302
Hey guys I'm new to this forum and I was wanting to see what kind of advice I could get for building up my 1966 coupe with a 302. It's got headers, exhaust, 4 barrel carb, billet pullies, a very mild cam, aluminum heads, and a couple other little things. I'm wanting to make it higher performance and I was thinkin about putting some lower gears in the rear end with posi, a more aggressive cam, and a stall/converter. From there I have no idea.. Help?
03-08-2010, 04:51 PM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,195
personally, quick and cheap performance, I'd start by recurving the dizzy, adj'd the timing, and re-jet the carb. As for the trans (C4?) , if it's still streetable, change to a C-servo and adjustable vacuum modulator, and shift kit. the rear trac-loc third member and gears can be had for about $700. Don't forget your brakes! Good brakes are worth the money; SSBC, etc.
03-09-2010, 12:05 AM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Discs aren't an absolute requirement. If you're only driving the car occasionally, and then usually in straight lines, discs may not really be necessary. But if you're driving often and/or on windy roads, definitely consider a front disc upgrade. Discs will offer more control during braking and less fade during repeated braking, but don't confuse this with stopping power. The factory drum brakes will stop the car just fine...just not always in the direction you expect
Regardless, a dual master cylinder upgrade should be considered mandatory. Single masters just aren't safe in the event of a leak.
As far as other upgrades go, the best bang for the buck will be rear gears. Of course, nothing will matter if you haven't already followed the advice in groho's first sentence.
Regardless, a dual master cylinder upgrade should be considered mandatory. Single masters just aren't safe in the event of a leak.
As far as other upgrades go, the best bang for the buck will be rear gears. Of course, nothing will matter if you haven't already followed the advice in groho's first sentence.
Last edited by Starfury; 03-09-2010 at 12:07 AM.
09-12-2010, 11:39 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: TN
Posts: 31
personally, quick and cheap performance, I'd start by recurving the dizzy, adj'd the timing, and re-jet the carb. As for the trans (C4?) , if it's still streetable, change to a C-servo and adjustable vacuum modulator, and shift kit. the rear trac-loc third member and gears can be had for about $700. Don't forget your brakes! Good brakes are worth the money; SSBC, etc.
Discs aren't an absolute requirement. If you're only driving the car occasionally, and then usually in straight lines, discs may not really be necessary. But if you're driving often and/or on windy roads, definitely consider a front disc upgrade. Discs will offer more control during braking and less fade during repeated braking, but don't confuse this with stopping power. The factory drum brakes will stop the car just fine...just not always in the direction you expect
Regardless, a dual master cylinder upgrade should be considered mandatory. Single masters just aren't safe in the event of a leak.
As far as other upgrades go, the best bang for the buck will be rear gears. Of course, nothing will matter if you haven't already followed the advice in groho's first sentence.
Regardless, a dual master cylinder upgrade should be considered mandatory. Single masters just aren't safe in the event of a leak.
As far as other upgrades go, the best bang for the buck will be rear gears. Of course, nothing will matter if you haven't already followed the advice in groho's first sentence.
I'll look into that