Jonk67

Well I finally got around to pulling my stroker off the stand and mounting the AOD to it so I could test fit my MAC long tube headers that are designed to fit with my PS and no drop bracket. The headers only cost me ~$100 finished as they were a fleabay find and I painted them myself and had them baked. So if I have to mod them it won't be a big deal to touch up the paint (VHT hightemp) and have them baked again.

The drivers side fit better than the passengers which I thought would be the opposite case.
Drivers head seal stands off 1/4" at the bottom due to the collector flange hitting the pan mount:






Passengers stands off 3/4" at the head, hitting in the same place:




Wide shots:




Looking for suggestions, first suggestion is to cut the collectors 3/4 of the way around about 4" before the end and bend them outwards, then weld the cut closed to give me a ~10-20* bend near the end for clearance.

First thing I think I'll do is cut the mounting ears loose so I can see where I'm at with just the collector area, then after tweaking the collector angle have the rings welded back on at a better angle so the thinner parts face the pan mount.

What is the easiest thing to cut the ring welds with? as they're welded every ~inch with space between welds, I don't weld so do I use a cutoff wheel, grider, etc.?

Suggestions welcome,
Jon

andrewmp6

Heat and bend is only way i would try,I would bolt the header to the work bench heat it up around the collector stick a wooden hammer handle in the collector and slowly bend it out.Worse case you might have to cut the collector flanges off to straighten them out.What about engine bay clearance?

Jonk67

Going in a '67, looks like engine bay clearance is ok but I want to fit to the engine/AOD first then install in engine bay, not looking to bend them far away, just enough to clear. At the rear the collectors will be below the floor pan anyway.
Jon

andrewmp6

You could do a small dimple or two can work and not choke off exhaust flow.

Norm Peterson

After you get past those two items, make ABSOLUTELY SURE that you can get the AOD's TV cable properly fitted without kinking it or having it lay up against the DS pipe. Considering this now may affect just where/how you tweak the header itself.


Norm

Jonk67

Thanks for the reminder Norm, I take it the TV cable crank points down opposite the shift lever?
Jon

Norm Peterson

I'll have to refer that one back to anybody with AOD experience that's more current than mine.


Hard to believe it's been 16 years this week since that job ended up being part of a powertrain replacement (and upgrade) I made to my daughter's first car when its original engine started using a LOT of water. There's a fair chance that I still have the installation instructions that came with the aftermarket-sourced TV cable that I ended up using, but a somewhat smaller chance that it has a useful picture.


Norm

LindenBruce

The TV cable arm can go up or down, depending on your installation. If the arm were pointing up at 12 o'clock, the arm would move forward as the throttle was opened. If the arm were pointing down at the 6 o'clock position, the arm would travel rearward as the throttle was opened. Once again, it depends on how you mount your TV cable bracket.

I'm looking at installing an AOD in my 69 as well. Lokar has a nice cable setup you can use. But I'm going to be looking into the factory cable set up for an 84 5.0 Mustang with the factory Holley four barrel carb. I'm betting it will work just fine. And since my car came with a Holley from the factory all the better.

How about cutting the welds at your collector flanges and rotating them so that the inner bolt hole below the center line of the collector? Then re-weld them in place. Bruce