Help with new 1100 carburetor for inline 6/electric choke conversion
#1
Help with new 1100 carburetor for inline 6/electric choke conversion
Hi all-
I am very familiar with 2-4 barrel carbs but this is my first single barrel. I just recently bought a 65 170ci Mustang where the owner hadn't driven the car much in two years and needed a new carburetor. It was hard to find but I found a rebuilt 1100 but this one has an automatic choke and my original has a manual.
I read that there is a hot air choke tube that hooks to the exhaust manifold, but would my manual choke manifold have provisions for this? Outside a new tube, would I need new parts on the exhaust manifold side?
Next, this carburetor looks completely different than the one on my car. Mainly the lack of vacuum tube next to the dashpot on my old one that runs to the distributor, and now having a different port that is on the side of the carburetor now (opposite of the auto choke)
Also, does anyone have a reference manual online for adjusting these? It looks like my carb has a second accelerator pump that has an adjustment screw in the middle of it? What is this for?
Here is old vs new, please help me identify what is going on.
I am very familiar with 2-4 barrel carbs but this is my first single barrel. I just recently bought a 65 170ci Mustang where the owner hadn't driven the car much in two years and needed a new carburetor. It was hard to find but I found a rebuilt 1100 but this one has an automatic choke and my original has a manual.
I read that there is a hot air choke tube that hooks to the exhaust manifold, but would my manual choke manifold have provisions for this? Outside a new tube, would I need new parts on the exhaust manifold side?
Next, this carburetor looks completely different than the one on my car. Mainly the lack of vacuum tube next to the dashpot on my old one that runs to the distributor, and now having a different port that is on the side of the carburetor now (opposite of the auto choke)
Also, does anyone have a reference manual online for adjusting these? It looks like my carb has a second accelerator pump that has an adjustment screw in the middle of it? What is this for?
Here is old vs new, please help me identify what is going on.
#3
If its a 170, it could be a 64.5. I can't believe you havent had a response yet.
I know on my 65 back when it was still a 200, the automatic choke had a bracket on the back of it and a heater hose sat there and was used to regulate the choke.
I know on my 65 back when it was still a 200, the automatic choke had a bracket on the back of it and a heater hose sat there and was used to regulate the choke.
#4
I forget where Idle screw is, but I'm fairly sure that the screw at the bottom near where it bolts to the log is the mixture screw. You adjust how much the choke opens and stays open by loosening the screws holding the black cylinder and turning it, then tightening the screws again. The only thing you need to check is to make sure that there is a hole on the top of your exhaust manifold. It is where the heat tube will go in. Also there is a spot for the vacuum to the distributor it is just a setup similar to brake line hookups.
Here is my old one off of my 67s 200.
Ok this last picture is a good one. The left metal pipe is my heat tube, the right one is going to the distributor as a vacuum line.
Here is my old one off of my 67s 200.
Ok this last picture is a good one. The left metal pipe is my heat tube, the right one is going to the distributor as a vacuum line.
Last edited by 1slow67; 06-22-2010 at 12:10 AM.
#6
WOW! This is forcing my worn out brain to go WAAaaay back.
The choke part can easily be taken care of. Back in the day, a common item at the auto supply store was a UNIVERSAL choke stove. It basically consisted of a sheet metal housing that you could clamp to the exhaust manifold. I wouldn't bother trying to find one, but use some heavy sheet metal to form a box that you can clamp to the manifold and drill a hole to put a good portion of choke tube into.
I for the life of me can't remember the accelerator pump adjustment, but you should be able to figure it out. It probably allows you to adjust the amount of stroke that the pump takes. I would simply figure out which way to adjust to shorten the pump stroke and then adjust it for the shortest stroke that you can get without bogging or hesitating under any condition.
Hope this helps.
The choke part can easily be taken care of. Back in the day, a common item at the auto supply store was a UNIVERSAL choke stove. It basically consisted of a sheet metal housing that you could clamp to the exhaust manifold. I wouldn't bother trying to find one, but use some heavy sheet metal to form a box that you can clamp to the manifold and drill a hole to put a good portion of choke tube into.
I for the life of me can't remember the accelerator pump adjustment, but you should be able to figure it out. It probably allows you to adjust the amount of stroke that the pump takes. I would simply figure out which way to adjust to shorten the pump stroke and then adjust it for the shortest stroke that you can get without bogging or hesitating under any condition.
Hope this helps.
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