Vacuum Advance Problem
06-29-2010, 06:11 PM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sugar Land, Texas
Posts: 566
Here is a link to the vacuum discussion about the 1100 carb....17 inches of HG at idle is the short answer...
http://tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php...4934&view=next
06-29-2010, 08:21 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 35
Here is a link to the vacuum discussion about the 1100 carb....17 inches of HG at idle is the short answer...
http://tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php...4934&view=next
http://tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php...4934&view=next
06-30-2010, 09:33 AM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: North East Texas on the Red River
Posts: 886
I really think that you're off on a tangent.
Connect a vacuum gauge to any vacuum port and see if you have 17 or 18 inHg. If everything is correct, you should have at least this much.
Whether you do or whether you don't, you need to do a thorough going over. In fact it wouldn't hurt to start with a compression check just to know that you're starting the process from a solid foundation.
Does it still have points? If so, make SURE that they are spotlessly clean with no pitting and adjusted correctly, then the timing set to factory setting with vac advance disconnected and plugged if that's what it calls for.
With points in good shape, adjusted properly and timing set, adjust the idle speed close to spec, and then turn the idle mixture screw in until it stumbles then back out maybe an 1/8 or 1/4 turn.
If you have trouble accomplishing any of these steps along the way, troubleshoot the reason why and correct it. Once you can go through all these steps to a smooth, hot idle, you'll have it.
When you get to one of these steps that you cannot get correct, post it here and we can go from there.
I really believe that you have focused on your vac advance issue and it is likely not your problem at all.
Connect a vacuum gauge to any vacuum port and see if you have 17 or 18 inHg. If everything is correct, you should have at least this much.
Whether you do or whether you don't, you need to do a thorough going over. In fact it wouldn't hurt to start with a compression check just to know that you're starting the process from a solid foundation.
Does it still have points? If so, make SURE that they are spotlessly clean with no pitting and adjusted correctly, then the timing set to factory setting with vac advance disconnected and plugged if that's what it calls for.
With points in good shape, adjusted properly and timing set, adjust the idle speed close to spec, and then turn the idle mixture screw in until it stumbles then back out maybe an 1/8 or 1/4 turn.
If you have trouble accomplishing any of these steps along the way, troubleshoot the reason why and correct it. Once you can go through all these steps to a smooth, hot idle, you'll have it.
When you get to one of these steps that you cannot get correct, post it here and we can go from there.
I really believe that you have focused on your vac advance issue and it is likely not your problem at all.
07-06-2010, 11:41 AM
#18
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 35
Tested vacuum. It had around 16 off the manifold. Probably ok there. Compression was pretty good: 135, 140, 150, 150, 155, 150. New points, condenser, rotor, coil. Gap good. Timing good. New plugs and wires.
Got the car to not die when putting in reverse and at operating temperature. Closed choke about 10°. Has anyone experienced this with a carb? I thought that it would run best when opened all the way at operating temp.
Got the car to not die when putting in reverse and at operating temperature. Closed choke about 10°. Has anyone experienced this with a carb? I thought that it would run best when opened all the way at operating temp.
07-06-2010, 04:40 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: IN
Posts: 35
Tested vacuum. It had around 16 off the manifold. Probably ok there. Compression was pretty good: 135, 140, 150, 150, 155, 150. New points, condenser, rotor, coil. Gap good. Timing good. New plugs and wires.
Got the car to not die when putting in reverse and at operating temperature. Closed choke about 10°. Has anyone experienced this with a carb? I thought that it would run best when opened all the way at operating temp.
Got the car to not die when putting in reverse and at operating temperature. Closed choke about 10°. Has anyone experienced this with a carb? I thought that it would run best when opened all the way at operating temp.