What Carb is this?
#11
those 4300's are crap, they didnt run very well when new, edelbrock (easy and reliable), summit seems to have a nice carb for a good price like a 4100, if you want the best for the money a road demon with annular boosters, 525-625 cfm.
#14
Similar, Holley made an "updated" copy of the 4100, now discontinued.
Summit is now making an "updated" copy of the discontinued Holley.
I have one on my 55 Lincoln, it is a good trouble free everyday carb, unfortunately it is made in China.
Summit is now making an "updated" copy of the discontinued Holley.
I have one on my 55 Lincoln, it is a good trouble free everyday carb, unfortunately it is made in China.
#16
Looks like Rocket J Squirrel has been storing his stuff on it..
Be careful with that choke cap, it's friggin' hard to get.
It Is more than likely a autolite 4100 480 CFM I would go with that , a 4300 would be on a big block and 4100 would be on the 289"s
The pic of the 4300 from 2+2GT looks just like my carb. So I guess I am a little confused again as to which carb it is.
#17
indeed funny
if 2+2 mentions that something is hard to get then he usually means anywhere (used or new) is a problem. From this I guess the 4300 choke cap might be different to the other autolite models. as other wise i don't see why you couldn't just pull it off a used 2100/4100
your carb is 4300, and a lot of people have commented that it's probably not the best of all carbs to get.
I thing what was meant with the 4100 is that if you want something that looks original or maybe was even on the car, rather go with a 4100 (they're great carbs) and way easier than the 4300 (to clean/rebuild). they are common. he's just suggesting a 480cfm autolite 4100 which is great for a stock 289/302
Kalli
if 2+2 mentions that something is hard to get then he usually means anywhere (used or new) is a problem. From this I guess the 4300 choke cap might be different to the other autolite models. as other wise i don't see why you couldn't just pull it off a used 2100/4100
your carb is 4300, and a lot of people have commented that it's probably not the best of all carbs to get.
I thing what was meant with the 4100 is that if you want something that looks original or maybe was even on the car, rather go with a 4100 (they're great carbs) and way easier than the 4300 (to clean/rebuild). they are common. he's just suggesting a 480cfm autolite 4100 which is great for a stock 289/302
Kalli
#18
You guys are great.
I found the rebuild kit here
http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/kits/CK043.htm
I think I am going to rebuild it anyway just for the experience and then if/when it is not so great I will go back and get me something else like the Edelbrock.
Thanks again
I found the rebuild kit here
http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/kits/CK043.htm
I think I am going to rebuild it anyway just for the experience and then if/when it is not so great I will go back and get me something else like the Edelbrock.
Thanks again
#20
You guys are great.
I found the rebuild kit here
http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/kits/CK043.htm
I think I am going to rebuild it anyway just for the experience and then if/when it is not so great I will go back and get me something else like the Edelbrock.
Thanks again
I found the rebuild kit here
http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/kits/CK043.htm
I think I am going to rebuild it anyway just for the experience and then if/when it is not so great I will go back and get me something else like the Edelbrock.
Thanks again
That's the spirit!!!! Give it the good ol' college try!!!!
It sounds as if you're new to carburetor rebuilding and that's okay. It will cost very little to give it a try and even if it doesn't work out for you, you will have learned something.
Before going to the trouble of rebuilding ANY carburetor, you should always check the throttle shafts for wear. If they are too worn, you will have a vacuum leak that, depending on how bad it is, you may never get the engine to idle right. To check grab the throttle linkage on the primary and wiggle the shaft back and forth with a force perpindicular to the length of the shaft. If it has very little or no movement, you will probably be okay.
If you don't already understand carburetor theory, there are books that will get you up to speed to understand the function and purpose for each subsystem of the carburetor. This would include the main system, idle system, enrichening system, float system, choke system and accelerator pump system. Do a little reading so you understand these theories and you will be well equipped to tackle any carburetor and figure out how to test things as you reassemble.
A great book for this is an HP book on Holley carburetors that has been in print for 40 years or so. Even though the book is specific to Holley's, it has very good descriptions of the subsystems, how they work, their purpose and how all this interacts. This is information that applies to any carburetor. It's what you UNDERSTAND that counts.
If you end up having to throw in the towel on this carburetor and you have already learned carburetor theory, going to a Holley would be a great step. They are much more tunable for those who understand carb theory. If you don't understand carb theory, then the Edelbrock would be a good choice if you don't plan on driving the car very much.
Edelbrock (Carter AFB) carbs have a moving piston inside a bore for an enrichening device. It works well when new, but experiences mechanical wear over time, which upsets the tune.
If you come up with any carb questions as you go through the project, just post them. There's enough carb savvy on this forum to get you through.
Good luck,