mechanical solid roller cam in 69 block
09-15-2010, 06:44 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,027
Do you have your heart set on th 69? I'd go with a late model roller block. You should be able to find an 87 - 91 302HO short block for under $300. It will be a roller block and have forged pistons in it.
No need for solid lifters anymore, the new hyd rollers are much lighter than in the past, I know guys that have them spinning 8000 rpm in 1000+ hp turbo 302s.
No need for solid lifters anymore, the new hyd rollers are much lighter than in the past, I know guys that have them spinning 8000 rpm in 1000+ hp turbo 302s.
09-15-2010, 07:13 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 200
I'm putting the 69 block i already have into a 84 mustang. I'm gonna use the block for a 347 stroker. I've already picked cam, heads, intake, carb and rotating assembly. Gonna turn it into a street/strip car.
09-16-2010, 09:08 AM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chandler, Az
Posts: 1,080
Most solid roller lifters arent street friendly. If thats the way you want to go, make sure you get something like the crower HIPPO lifters that have pin oiling. You're also going to need some hefty valve springs to go with it. You'll have to keep an eye on the pressures
and swap them out alot more often. BTW, the crowers arent cheap, $650+ a set. Comp makes a similar one for a little over $400 a set.
Also, make sure the stroker kit you want will work with the early 2-piece rear main seal. Like everyone else said, a later roller block would probably be a better starting point.
and swap them out alot more often. BTW, the crowers arent cheap, $650+ a set. Comp makes a similar one for a little over $400 a set.
Also, make sure the stroker kit you want will work with the early 2-piece rear main seal. Like everyone else said, a later roller block would probably be a better starting point.
09-16-2010, 02:25 PM
#8
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
Solid roller can beat the snot out of the valvetrain. fine when running high rpm where everything is hot and expanded, but cruising on the street they can run into issues that break parts. So then you get the cam ground so it's easy on valvetrain parts, but then you might as well get an aggressive hyd roller and not have to worry about anything.
09-16-2010, 03:35 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 200
Solid roller can beat the snot out of the valvetrain. fine when running high rpm where everything is hot and expanded, but cruising on the street they can run into issues that break parts. So then you get the cam ground so it's easy on valvetrain parts, but then you might as well get an aggressive hyd roller and not have to worry about anything.
09-16-2010, 04:10 PM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chandler, Az
Posts: 1,080
It would be cheaper to by a roller block :-)
Do alot of research, some use a smaller base circle cam. So you cant use just any roller cam out there. The crane kit uses a regular cam, but $450 a set lifters.
What are your goals?
Do alot of research, some use a smaller base circle cam. So you cant use just any roller cam out there. The crane kit uses a regular cam, but $450 a set lifters.
What are your goals?