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Hello all, I need the foum's advice

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Old 09-20-2010, 12:41 AM
  #21  
echo65
 
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It hard to see with black paint but the vin numbers will be stamped at #1 and # 2 locations under hood on driver side fender.

# 1 location can be seen with the finders on.
#2 location can only be seen with fender off.
These numbers should match the numbers on the driver door tag.



Your # 65A D 2B 15C 13 2 ?? is the vehicle code??
The …….4966 is the warranty code
I do not see a vin # ??
But I do not recognize the door plate as well??
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:54 AM
  #22  
67t5ponycoupe
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Yes the VIN is on the data plate in the upper left corner. I read it as 7T01T214966. Is this the correct VIM for the car or has the door been changed? I don't know. That VIN is for a car with a straight 6 engine so if you car is not a straight 6 it is most likely not for your car. The best thing to do is pull the fenders off the car and see if you can find this VIN any where under or near the fenders on the approns. If you can I would say that is the correct VIN and you can start trying to get a title using that VIN. If the VIN's under the hood don't match data plate VIN I would say the VIN's under the hood are correct not the data plate VIN. If there are no VIN's under the hood then you are back to square one. If you clean the overspray off the data plate you will see it says "Not for Title or Registration" just under the VIN.

The rest of the date plate decoded says that the car is a 2 door hardtop (Coupe), Standard interior, Acapulco Blue Metalic, Light blue and Dark Blue crinkle vinyl interior, built on March 15th, Delivered to New York with a 2.83:1 axle gear and an automatic transmission.

Last edited by 67t5ponycoupe; 09-20-2010 at 02:56 AM.
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Old 09-21-2010, 04:52 PM
  #23  
echo65
 
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I bought my car new in 65. I just went back and reviewed all my documents. In my owner manual the warranty number is the same number Texas used as the vin number.

The numbers 67t5ponycoupe read are the correct sequence and I would agree with 67t5ponycoupe those numbers are the vin for a Mustang.

I also agree if you find numbers on the fender use those. Even if the fender is from another car, chances are very good the other car is now scrap. Then get a new doorplate made.

If there are no numbers on the fender, then you could consider using the doorplate numbers assuming the original car it came from is now scrap…

Good luck..
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:20 PM
  #24  
Novice-Owner-Marc
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Originally Posted by 67t5ponycoupe
Yes the VIN is on the data plate in the upper left corner. I read it as 7T01T214966.
The rest of the date plate decoded says that the car is a 2 door hardtop (Coupe), Standard interior, Acapulco Blue Metalic, Light blue and Dark Blue crinkle vinyl interior, built on March 15th, Delivered to New York with a 2.83:1 axle gear and an automatic transmission.
So my question is to anyone out there.... Does anyone know if the rear end with the 2.83:1 gear ratio would normally have a four or five lug set of connections to the wheels?

I am trying to determine my rear end and don't know if it is the original. The guy I bought the car from did say that the car originally was a 6 cylinder but he sold that engine to help pay for a bigger engine.
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:32 PM
  #25  
1slow67
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Which rear end does yours look like?



Bottom is my old I6(4 lug) rear end, top is 8" V8(5 lug) rear end.
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:34 PM
  #26  
jp1967stang
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Just find a car that has a rusted out body not worth fixing pay 50 dollars for it get the title with it. Cut vins out, and their you have it you have a title. They do this when they rebody cars anyways. Or if you do have a door tag you can aways try to bond it but then you have to keep the car for 5 years or something might have that in your state.

Last edited by jp1967stang; 02-17-2011 at 09:38 PM.
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