Stall Issues - what else can I do (pics/vids)
#11
Picked it up this morning. Mech told me the car stalled on his drive, checked the carb, looked inside and could see much cunk, he cleaned the internals as best he could and adjusted, starts up and is running good now. He recommends a rebuild, problem fixed for now but that the carb is def in need of being cleaned out and rebuilt.
Still dont know if I trust my patience to attempt on my own. Is it something that is easily done or should it be left to a pro...
Cleaning/adjustment ran $40, rebuilt would run approx $60 for kit, plus labor would run about $240-50. If I dont attempt to rebuild myself, would I be better off buying a new carb or rebuilding current one? Can you get a new one in the $250 range?
Again, thanks for all the help/input.
Still dont know if I trust my patience to attempt on my own. Is it something that is easily done or should it be left to a pro...
Cleaning/adjustment ran $40, rebuilt would run approx $60 for kit, plus labor would run about $240-50. If I dont attempt to rebuild myself, would I be better off buying a new carb or rebuilding current one? Can you get a new one in the $250 range?
Again, thanks for all the help/input.
#12
coll you gopt it sorted. 250 is a lot to ask for a carb rebuild. especially an edelbrock. is not much in them. You could do that yourself. the kit should come with instructions.
The only halfway decent carb in that pricerange is probably the summit 600cfm
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08600VS/
however before getting one for that money. why not waste 30-ish dollars on a rebuid kit and try it. if you fail miserably you can always the other one.
don't know if that's sound advise. but weith the edelbrock manual (eealier in post) and the kit you should be fine. The crap in carburetor is probably from a bad fuel filter.
you changed that, so maybe you are ok now. maybe you don't even need a rebuild ?
The only halfway decent carb in that pricerange is probably the summit 600cfm
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08600VS/
however before getting one for that money. why not waste 30-ish dollars on a rebuid kit and try it. if you fail miserably you can always the other one.
don't know if that's sound advise. but weith the edelbrock manual (eealier in post) and the kit you should be fine. The crap in carburetor is probably from a bad fuel filter.
you changed that, so maybe you are ok now. maybe you don't even need a rebuild ?
#13
Good point Kali, for $30ish its worth a shot, if not look for something else, hope to ride for awhile and see if the new filter helps keep her running better for a bit b4 looking into rebuild.
Would the summit carb listed be the best recommendation or can you get a much better carb for the $300-350 range? Would need input on selections if thats the way I go down the road.....
Thanks again for everyones help : )
Would the summit carb listed be the best recommendation or can you get a much better carb for the $300-350 range? Would need input on selections if thats the way I go down the road.....
Thanks again for everyones help : )
#14
Good point Kali, for $30ish its worth a shot, if not look for something else, hope to ride for awhile and see if the new filter helps keep her running better for a bit b4 looking into rebuild.
Would the summit carb listed be the best recommendation or can you get a much better carb for the $300-350 range? Would need input on selections if thats the way I go down the road.....
Thanks again for everyones help : )
Would the summit carb listed be the best recommendation or can you get a much better carb for the $300-350 range? Would need input on selections if thats the way I go down the road.....
Thanks again for everyones help : )
The carb you currently have is usually troublefree, something I could recommend.
However, checking on your pictures it's an 1411 (which is 750cfm), which is way too big. you will have the usual symptoms like off idle surge and bad throttle response (not as bad in the edelbrocks with their smaller front venturis though). but performance is probably not the best once the huge ones in the back start opening and you probably run rich like mad if unchanged from stock ...
Can you verify the number at the very front of the carb. looking at it far left corner very bottom. basically just where the bolt is
i think it reads 1411 from your pictures
Kalli
#15
That mechanic kind of priced himself out of the market, for less than $300 you can buy a NEW Edelbrock, or a "rebuilt" for even less...
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...Ns=Price%7cAsc
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...Ns=Price%7cAsc
#17
Hey, he told me that I could prob get one for the price it would run for him to rebuild, his kit price was $60 and I guess about $160-190 for labor, so he did let me know to look into a refab/new one vs rebuilding current one.
Kali, I am at work so dont have car to verify but I do believe the number you see is correct, 1411.....
Kali, I am at work so dont have car to verify but I do believe the number you see is correct, 1411.....
#18
if its the 1411, I probably wouldn't rebuild it. Sell it 2nd hand and get a 500-600(max) cfm carb.
cheapest would be a rebuilt edelbrock 1406 (<250$), the summit 600cfm (250$), the edelbrock 1406 (<300$), holley street avenger 570cfm (350$)
don't forget that the original carb for those carbs is actually a quite good one. the autolite 4100 (480cfm). if you get a good rebuilt one for cheap money that would be a good choice as well
cheapest would be a rebuilt edelbrock 1406 (<250$), the summit 600cfm (250$), the edelbrock 1406 (<300$), holley street avenger 570cfm (350$)
don't forget that the original carb for those carbs is actually a quite good one. the autolite 4100 (480cfm). if you get a good rebuilt one for cheap money that would be a good choice as well
#19
Kali, you suggest not rebuilding to reduce the cfm # from 750 to 600? You think that would help the car run better than the current 750?
I have a carb spacer on it as well, it was suggested awhile back to help with any vapor lock issues, should I keep that on after rebuilt/new carb is replaced? or see how it works without it on? Do I need to get any new gaskets for spacer or just used the current ones?
I have a carb spacer on it as well, it was suggested awhile back to help with any vapor lock issues, should I keep that on after rebuilt/new carb is replaced? or see how it works without it on? Do I need to get any new gaskets for spacer or just used the current ones?
#20
Kali, you suggest not rebuilding to reduce the cfm # from 750 to 600? You think that would help the car run better than the current 750?
I have a carb spacer on it as well, it was suggested awhile back to help with any vapor lock issues, should I keep that on after rebuilt/new carb is replaced? or see how it works without it on? Do I need to get any new gaskets for spacer or just used the current ones?
I have a carb spacer on it as well, it was suggested awhile back to help with any vapor lock issues, should I keep that on after rebuilt/new carb is replaced? or see how it works without it on? Do I need to get any new gaskets for spacer or just used the current ones?
Also, The summit racing carbs are pretty good for a driver, they are a modified copy of a modified copy previously made by Holley patterned after the Autolite 4100, it is different, but kind of similar to a 4100. I have run a couple of them right out of the box, they are pretty good, but they used to be a little cheaper, still not bad with the elec choke.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08600VS/