livefromny

Hey guys-

I'm getting ready to start on my build and I've been researching parts for a couple weeks now. My head is swimming a little bit with all the options available to me. I thought I'd ask some of the experts here for their input.

The car I bought is a 1966, 289 Fastback. Manual steering/brakes and non-AC. I'm on a little bit of a quest to build my dream car. My first car when I was 16 years old was a similar vehicle. Back then, I really couldn't afford to do what I wanted to do with the car. Now that I can do it right, I though it'd be fun build the Mustang I always wanted.

With the exception of body and paint, I'll be doing most of the work myself. I'm not trying to build a monster. More of a cruiser with decent power and great handling and reliability. The things that I know I want to do but have questions about:

1. Crate motor
2. 5spd tranny
3. Upgraded suspension
4. Power steering
5. Power brakes
6. Rear diff.
7. Tilt wheel
8. AC

I've found some stuff that I like but I'm curious. If you were building this car, and money was no object, what would you guys do?

tcrote5516

For a NON monster, great driver:

351 Cleavor (dependable all around driver with plenty of torque)
Stock internals
Just a mild cam

T5 World Class Trans
IFS (I'd fabricate my own)
9" rear on a triangulated 4 link with coilovers
SSBC Booster/adjustable proportioning valve and 14/12" Disc combo
Ididit steering
Vintageair (digital) HVAC (retains a factory looking control with wires, no cables)

az1966

can't really advise to the spec thing,,,in my case the guys all advised to do it your way cause it;s your car,bucks,wants and desires. when I started out on my quest for adaily driver I made a list of things that could keep me from driveing for a "short " period of time,,brakes,starter, radiator etc and where to get them,,,,,,compared against local and internet sties for avail and shipping costs,,,then made a list of front end, electric, interior and shoped the net for a few months to get an idea of who sells what/shipping cost to get a base line

hope this helps

mr_velocity

I'm finding my way down this road, only you were smart enough to ask questions first. Only difference is my is a 66 coupe. Here is the list of things I did or in the process of doing.

Torque boxes
Sub-frame connectors
Everything I could do to make the rust bucket rust proof
New tri-coat paint
Lizard skin on everything internal
Body wax into every cavity
9" rear posi on a coil over suspension (Rod and Custom)
12.19 cross drilled/slotted 4 piston calipers (Wilwood)
Coil over front suspension (same brake specs as the rear) again Rod and Custom which includes power R&P steering.
Power brakes (haven't purchased the MC yet)
Motor will be a 302HO (1990) fordged pistons, full roller link w/ bar lifters, TrickFlow heads haven't spec'd a cam yet
Rebuilt and modified AOD trans
New retro AC air system (haven't decided on brand yet)

Its all going to come down to $$ and your budget. I always blow my budget but I figure I'll have about $15K - $20K into the car with labor being 100% all me.

This doesn't include the $$ I spend for a new Millermatic 180 welder and upgrading my compressor to the Quicny.....but I'm always looking for an excuse to buy new tools.

Coupe

Is budget a concern?

I like the K code brakes, best bang for the buck IMHO

I like a simple crate motor from Ford racing etc... If you are going to drive it you will need gas, not much point in spending a ton of money to get passed by a v6 Mustang...and since you mentioned power brakes and AC maximum power may not be your goal?

I like a rack& pinion for steering, power steering is good if your a girl :-) Manual is really dead simple and it is easy to turn, even in a parking lot.


Get as new a T-5 as you can find if you are going used. If you are going new get a Z spec motorsport. If you are OK with modifying the floor you can get a 6 speed.

Rear diff...tricky. The 9" is popular but heavy, but to build an 8" rear end with trac-loc and a good gear set can cost a bunch. (+/- $1k without brakes or new axles) I have seen a complete, fresh 9" trac-loc with a good gear and disk rotors for under $2k on Ebay.


Front suspension...are you going to drive it hard like a racecar or cruise it, power tour and lean on it at the cruise in? I would look at Opentrackerracing products or . Mustang II front ends can update your car...right into the 70's, and butcher your car.

If you want fancy and budget is not a concern look into a tube suspension that mounts a coilover on the LOWER control arm.


And dont forget its all opinion until a stopwatch is used on a racetrack.

mr_velocity

Looking at the current garage list in his sig, either he's full of BS or budget is not an issue. Not sure why he's not playing with Shelbys.

"The current garage:
1966 Ford Mustang Fastback
2009 Ferrari F430 Spider
2009 Jaguar XF Supercharged
2008 Aston Martin Vantage N400
2008 Toyota Tundra Crewmax Limited
1986 Porsche 944 Turbo
1974 Ford Bronco Ranger
1961 Austin Healey 3000 MK1 BT7
...and not nearly enough time to enjoy them!"

tcrote5516

Ohhh yea, I've been meaning to add my garage to my signature:

1967 Mustang
2010 Bugatti Veyron
2010 Lamborghini Reventon
1994 McLaren F1 (yea the First year baby)
2009 Ferrari Enzo
2008 Pagani Zonda C12 F
2009 Saleen S7 Twin Turbo
2010 Hyundai Sonata
2010 Jeep Patriot

...and not nearly enough hands to drive them!"

hightower2011

Good god, someone has more than enough cars!

I can only be jealous though. Glad to hear you want to BUILD your mustang rather than buy one that is close to what you want.

livefromny

Thanks for the replies guys.

To answer what seems to be the dominating question... no, budget isn't really a concern. As to why I'm not playing with Shelbys if I'm not concerned about $$, the answer is that I may someday. Right now, I want to build a custom driver - not a concours restoration - and I want to do most of the work myself.

Again, thanks for the replies, and keep them coming.

Norm Peterson

Since I don't see much "dragstrip" among your current garage inhabitants, I'm going to suggest a 3-link with either a Panhard bar or a Watts link for lateral axle location. Thing with the 3-link is that it generally works better through the corners than most triangulated 4-links and particularly so when the turns aren't constant radius or when they alternate direction (think slalom). Ford moved away from the triangulated 4-link in the Fox/SN95/New Edge to a 3-link/PHB back in 2005 with the S197, and that new car has consistently performed above peoples' expectations for a stick-axle car in comparisons against various cars with fully independent suspensions (new Camaro, new Challenger, M3). It's not just magazine hype.

I'm aware that you can tune a triangulated 4-link to a much more performance-cornering point than the OE's have ever done, but of only one entity that has actually done so (AME, IIRC). Even then, the nod for better slalom performance still goes to the 3-link.

I understand wanting A/C, and no, that shouldn't be necessarily construed as being satisfied with less power. I'd consider building up an EFI 331 with a hydraulic roller cam and aluminum heads - and look for a stouter tranny than a T5.

Regardless of anything else, consider doing some chassis structural reinforcement, at least weld-in subframe connectors. And you may end up doing/redoing torque boxes and adding other stiffening.


Norm