001mustang

Anyone know how 67 altenator gauge works?
Been looking at those since 16 and never investigated how they work.
Seems they always just flicker near center no mater what.
Altenator loosing charge b4, noticed starter turning slower, didn't notce change in gauge.

I'm considering replacing OEM altenator gauge w/ voltmeter guts.
Sound reasonable?

Am I reinventing the wheel?

jgemperline

Cool idea. I think the original is just copper wire and magnet. That supro may be the same technology but more accurate some how. If this works I may be doing the same b/c mine died. I dont like the blue stipe but if the old face wraps around the new gauge $$$. Go for it!

tx65coupe

I would rather add the guage and mount it under the dash than replace the factory one. That will look like its rigged in my opinion, since it won't match the other gauges.

I have a volt gauge from Make Waves Instruments line of gauges called Super Pro. My tach is also from them. I prefer these because they look old school.

http://www.makewavesinstrumentcorp.com/

These are the classic style gauges.

http://www.makewavesinstrumentcorp.com/cat004.html

001mustang

All that will show is maybe 10 thru 16 volts, the orange needle and blue stripe.

I don't like blue stripe either may have to paint it black.

May have to order to see if it will fit.

I'm guessing OEM is supposed to be a poorly functioning amp meter vs the new one is volt meter.

kalli

you can use both.
the original I believe to be an AMP gauge. so if the car is off the gauge is in the middle if nothing draws power. if you flick on the radio it problably will show below middle, when you start and alternator is charging then it will go to the other side.
So basically if you're charging it's on one side, if discharging (bad) on the other.
An amp gauge is easy to identify as it's wired inline.

a voltmeter is hooked up parallel. It would have the same purpose. If the car is running and you have 13-14V then you know the alternator and regulator is doing it's work. So in my opinion they are two completely different things but would server the same purpose. If you use it, then i'd wire it myself instead of using anything from the alt gauge. so it's a better option to just add it. you could hook ignition+ to one side, ground to the other and job done.

Jonk67

Interesting idea, I find the alt. gauge useless also. I have never seen it move any more than from middle to just past middle like in your pic. I installed a 100A alt. and saw no change in this gauge so if it's an amp gauge I would think it would register some what higher? I would like to find a 100-0-100 amp gauge I could put in seperate or put the guts behind my stock 'alt. gauge' face and hopefully be able to set it so all the way to 'C' is 100A and just above the middle would be ~10A so I should see it rise as I increase from idle to 2K RPM lets say.

I seem to recall posters with electrical knowledge warning against running amp? meters into the car as it's a lot of juice coming to the dash and if the wire frays = more chance of fire? They suggested just a volt meter? Am I remembering that right?
Jon

tx65coupe

I have a 100 amp alternator too. My aftermarket volt gauge always reads about 13-14 volts and never reads higher or lower.

Starfury

The gauge in a '67 is a voltmeter, not an ammeter. And to my knowledge, ALL '67 voltmeter gauges only move a hair. You get a little bit more movement if you clean off all the connections really well, but they're still not very helpful.

I agree, if you want an accurate gauge, simply add one under the dash. Under the radio is a good place to mount a 3-gauge bezel. Water temp, oil pressure, and voltage are the common gauges.

001mustang

Not a fan of 3 gauge bezels I've seen.

Maybe a couple gauge cups under radio would be more jazzzy.

tx65coupe

If I didn't have the under dash AC, I would have a 3 gauge setup under the ash tray.