Big day tomorrow...I need advice!!!
01-24-2011, 08:00 PM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: tn
Posts: 889
[QUOTE=THUMPIN455;7388033]Wait a minute, mileage stinks, plugs are black, and you are changing the distributor. Well I guess it might be part of it...]
Right.
No idea why you are changing distributor unless it's not hitting on all 6.
I once bought a rebuilt carb for 200 I6 and it had wrong jet.
Took me awhile but I finally found specs for correct jet and it ran perfect for years. Yours is so rich I doubt if its only a jet issue.
Kinda like fuel shut off valve leaking.
Why not rebuild carb like thumpin455 said.
Am I missing something???
Right.
No idea why you are changing distributor unless it's not hitting on all 6.
I once bought a rebuilt carb for 200 I6 and it had wrong jet.
Took me awhile but I finally found specs for correct jet and it ran perfect for years. Yours is so rich I doubt if its only a jet issue.
Kinda like fuel shut off valve leaking.
Why not rebuild carb like thumpin455 said.
Am I missing something???
01-24-2011, 08:10 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: tn
Posts: 889
1)start by figuring out what plug is plug #1
2) rotate engine by hand with large ratchet on crank until rotor is under plug wire 1
3) look at damper wheel and make sure timing mark reads 0 TDC
Then pull the distributor out and make sure the new one lines back up the same with plug wire 1.
Did you ever time the engine? Was timing actually 0 deg adv?
-Gun
ps The idea is you want the engine in a know location...That location is top dead center TDC...Piston 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke and the dizzy rotor will be directly under plug wire 1. Most issues come from not knowing what position the engine is in so you have no idea where the rotor should be pointing. THe 2nd big issue is having piston 1 TDC on the exhaust stroke (180 out of phase) If you see that the rotor is under plug 1 and the timing mark reads TDC you can be sure that you are not 180 out of phase and are indeed on TDC compression.
2) rotate engine by hand with large ratchet on crank until rotor is under plug wire 1
3) look at damper wheel and make sure timing mark reads 0 TDC
Then pull the distributor out and make sure the new one lines back up the same with plug wire 1.
Did you ever time the engine? Was timing actually 0 deg adv?
-Gun
ps The idea is you want the engine in a know location...That location is top dead center TDC...Piston 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke and the dizzy rotor will be directly under plug wire 1. Most issues come from not knowing what position the engine is in so you have no idea where the rotor should be pointing. THe 2nd big issue is having piston 1 TDC on the exhaust stroke (180 out of phase) If you see that the rotor is under plug 1 and the timing mark reads TDC you can be sure that you are not 180 out of phase and are indeed on TDC compression.
01-24-2011, 08:18 PM
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
As far as I can tell the only way the rotor could point to plug 4 at TDC is if it wasnt at TDC....TDC is the same thing as saying: plug 1 sparking at the same time piston 1 reaches the top of its stroke. Plug 1 can't spark unless the rotor is exactly under plug wire 1 at the dizzy cap.
If your thing says TDC and the rotor is somewhere near plug 4 its going to run just like it does now.
ARE YOU SURE there arent two sets of timing numbers on that damper wheel??
Mark the one you have been using with chalk and see if you can find a second TDC.
-Gun
If your thing says TDC and the rotor is somewhere near plug 4 its going to run just like it does now.
ARE YOU SURE there arent two sets of timing numbers on that damper wheel??
Mark the one you have been using with chalk and see if you can find a second TDC.
-Gun
01-24-2011, 08:24 PM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: tn
Posts: 889
if so...will have to take out plug one and find #1 TDC on compression stroke and reinstall dist.
01-24-2011, 09:25 PM
#15
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
Ohh good catch 001! I missed that
I thinks thats where he screwed the pooch.
Tilly did you move the crank more than a 1/2" at the ratchet handle end...did you move it about 1/4 engine rotation?
Alls you gotta do is move the crank back so the TDC mark lines up with the indicator (you are using the little pointy indicator right) and then place the rotor on plug 1 and install the dizzy... Then as the gears mesh it can cause the rotor to move a few degrees so you might have to aim a little ahead of plug 1 so when it seats it moves directly under.
You can't set it to tdc then move the crank to fit your needs before installing or seating the dizzy
-Gun
I thinks thats where he screwed the pooch.
Tilly did you move the crank more than a 1/2" at the ratchet handle end...did you move it about 1/4 engine rotation?
Alls you gotta do is move the crank back so the TDC mark lines up with the indicator (you are using the little pointy indicator right) and then place the rotor on plug 1 and install the dizzy... Then as the gears mesh it can cause the rotor to move a few degrees so you might have to aim a little ahead of plug 1 so when it seats it moves directly under.
You can't set it to tdc then move the crank to fit your needs before installing or seating the dizzy
-Gun
01-24-2011, 10:00 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: California
Posts: 194
I got it running like a champ!!!
First I want to thank everyone who posted trying to help me, especially Gun Jam.
I had remembered this post from Kalli on another thread, so I found it and applied it to my situation, and it worked! I swapped what I was using as my #1 spark plug wire with the wire on the exact opposite side, then changed the other wires appropriately. It fired up immediately and runs very smooth.
Here's why I changed the distributor and added electronic ignition...It was very apparent that the distributor was not made for my original carb, so obviously it who create a problem. Next I wanted to bring my ignition to the 21st century without changing the looks.
Tomorrow I will drive the car, and perhaps it will still get 9 mpg, but at least I will know there is only one thing it could be: the carb! If that is indeed still the problem, then that is an easy fix, and I will now have a great running car with original parts (distributor).
First I want to thank everyone who posted trying to help me, especially Gun Jam.
I had remembered this post from Kalli on another thread, so I found it and applied it to my situation, and it worked! I swapped what I was using as my #1 spark plug wire with the wire on the exact opposite side, then changed the other wires appropriately. It fired up immediately and runs very smooth.
Here's why I changed the distributor and added electronic ignition...It was very apparent that the distributor was not made for my original carb, so obviously it who create a problem. Next I wanted to bring my ignition to the 21st century without changing the looks.
Tomorrow I will drive the car, and perhaps it will still get 9 mpg, but at least I will know there is only one thing it could be: the carb! If that is indeed still the problem, then that is an easy fix, and I will now have a great running car with original parts (distributor).
1. turn the engine manually so you have TDC (the TDC 0 degree mark lines up on balancer/timing mark)
2. remove distributor cap
3. look where the rotor is pointing to
4. turn the distributor in such a way that the rotor is pointing exactly to a terminal when you would put the cap back on
5. put the cap back on and put the spark plug wire leading to #1 cylinder there
6. proceed anticlockwise in firing order. so the next terminal on the cap anticlockwise points to the next cylinder in your firing order
7. start engine (try). try as well with the distributor turned a bit advanced and a bit retarded. but leave roughly where you had it (remember so you can come back to that setting)
three options:
- car runs->adjust your timing
- car doesn't react to it at all (it's just going whopwhopwhop): try with the distributor turned a bit anticlockwise as well as clockwise. no change whatsoever->check wiring
- the car misfires badly: exchange the 8 spark plug leads on top of distributor with their exact opposite cable on the cap. I mean pull #1 and swap it on top the cap (no other changes) with the exact opposite on the cap (the furthest away one).
do this 4 times altogether so all 8 are swapped. when done you should have the same firing order just that #1 spark lead is on exact opposite side of cap. try again ... (if it doesn't work try again with a bit forward and backward turning on distributor)
2. remove distributor cap
3. look where the rotor is pointing to
4. turn the distributor in such a way that the rotor is pointing exactly to a terminal when you would put the cap back on
5. put the cap back on and put the spark plug wire leading to #1 cylinder there
6. proceed anticlockwise in firing order. so the next terminal on the cap anticlockwise points to the next cylinder in your firing order
7. start engine (try). try as well with the distributor turned a bit advanced and a bit retarded. but leave roughly where you had it (remember so you can come back to that setting)
three options:
- car runs->adjust your timing
- car doesn't react to it at all (it's just going whopwhopwhop): try with the distributor turned a bit anticlockwise as well as clockwise. no change whatsoever->check wiring
- the car misfires badly: exchange the 8 spark plug leads on top of distributor with their exact opposite cable on the cap. I mean pull #1 and swap it on top the cap (no other changes) with the exact opposite on the cap (the furthest away one).
do this 4 times altogether so all 8 are swapped. when done you should have the same firing order just that #1 spark lead is on exact opposite side of cap. try again ... (if it doesn't work try again with a bit forward and backward turning on distributor)
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