Contemplating A Carb Swap (Autolite 4100)
#11
I have a 650 DP on mine and she starts right up without any problems.
#12
I hate to admit it since they are made in China, but I am going to, between my son's and I we are running 3 of these carbs right out of the box. They have proved to be excellent drivers, and economical.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08600VS/
Anyway, rumor has it that they are a copy of a Holley carb (now out of production), that was made very similar to a 4100 (kind of a 4100 copy), they do kind of resemble a 4100 apart from the accelerator pump which is not the same.
My Lincoln starts on the first turn of the starter practically every time, even when it is in the 20s outside, then idles cold without any help, gets me between 15 and 20 mpg, and it runs great.
I bought the first one because it was cheap, and I have to reluctantly admit to being impressed. Jim has one on his 66, it is a little cold blooded but it has a huge cam in it and would probably benefit from a good tuning.
Just another (cheap) option....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08600VS/
Anyway, rumor has it that they are a copy of a Holley carb (now out of production), that was made very similar to a 4100 (kind of a 4100 copy), they do kind of resemble a 4100 apart from the accelerator pump which is not the same.
My Lincoln starts on the first turn of the starter practically every time, even when it is in the 20s outside, then idles cold without any help, gets me between 15 and 20 mpg, and it runs great.
I bought the first one because it was cheap, and I have to reluctantly admit to being impressed. Jim has one on his 66, it is a little cold blooded but it has a huge cam in it and would probably benefit from a good tuning.
Just another (cheap) option....
#13
My car has JBA midlength headers and 2.5 inch dual exhaust with Dynomax Ultraflo mufflers. The intake is an Edelbrock Performer RPM.
Here is what it has. Don't poke fun at the Gates Vulcoflex radiator hose. I couldn't find anything molded that would work.
Last edited by tx65coupe; 01-28-2011 at 02:48 AM.
#14
i'd say start in that order.
when car is cold and was standing for a while, best is over night:
remove air cleaner, the choke butterfly (front venturi top, not the AVS thing on the secondaries) is likely to be open. The rear one for secondary (has absolutely nothing to do with choke will be closed).
now without turning any keys simply look down the front venturis.
1. open the throttle plate (agitate the linkage to gaspedal at carb) and while opening you should see petrol spraying
2. When throttle is fully open close the throtte and latest now the choke butterfly should be fully closed (or pretty close to close)
if 1. results in: na, didn't see any petrol there. Then the first thing I'd do is add a phenolic spacer under the carb. Chances are very high that after engine shutoff the carbs starts boiling and fuel evaporates (common issue) so you will have to start the engine for lets' say 20 seconds to fill up the fuel bowls again
if 2. results in: na, that thing stayed open then pick up the owners manual and check for how the choke is supposed to be adjsted. can help here as well, just let us know the results.
if both 1. and 2. are ok (and only then) then don't spray a 2nd time. simply get in the car and start with no foot on pedal. doesn't start, press pedal half way. if you get it to start get it back to idle. if it cuts out there then you need to increase the fast idle screw.
let us know how you get on
Kalli
edit: after seeing JMDs post. yes, forgot to mention. this is a very very good alternative to the 4100s. seen a cut through, it's very similar design
when car is cold and was standing for a while, best is over night:
remove air cleaner, the choke butterfly (front venturi top, not the AVS thing on the secondaries) is likely to be open. The rear one for secondary (has absolutely nothing to do with choke will be closed).
now without turning any keys simply look down the front venturis.
1. open the throttle plate (agitate the linkage to gaspedal at carb) and while opening you should see petrol spraying
2. When throttle is fully open close the throtte and latest now the choke butterfly should be fully closed (or pretty close to close)
if 1. results in: na, didn't see any petrol there. Then the first thing I'd do is add a phenolic spacer under the carb. Chances are very high that after engine shutoff the carbs starts boiling and fuel evaporates (common issue) so you will have to start the engine for lets' say 20 seconds to fill up the fuel bowls again
if 2. results in: na, that thing stayed open then pick up the owners manual and check for how the choke is supposed to be adjsted. can help here as well, just let us know the results.
if both 1. and 2. are ok (and only then) then don't spray a 2nd time. simply get in the car and start with no foot on pedal. doesn't start, press pedal half way. if you get it to start get it back to idle. if it cuts out there then you need to increase the fast idle screw.
let us know how you get on
Kalli
edit: after seeing JMDs post. yes, forgot to mention. this is a very very good alternative to the 4100s. seen a cut through, it's very similar design
#15
Alot of guys I know had issues with Holleys on their Mustangs, Camaros, Chevelles, Novas, and so on. Most of them either have an Edelbrock or some sort of factory carb now. Most of these cars are all in near stock form though.
#16
I did what you said Kalli. I'm posting that in the other thread on tuning since its more appropriate.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...06-tuning.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...06-tuning.html
#18
#19
The lower hose should be no problem. If the inlet is on the LH side, the standard 67-69 289/302/351 lower hose should be fine.