eZ

Be careful just because a carb is "too big" does not mean it is going to run rich. It just so happens a majority of the time it can be the opposite. for example: If your carb is too small your air velocity will be too high wich actually pulls more feul into the carb. A carb that is too big means that the motor is not pulling enough air and the air velocity would not be pulling any feul through the carb...air velocity works like a vaccum effect

make sure your timing is dead on before meesing with the jets

MustangFTW

i have a autolite 2100 in my stock 289 having the same problems your having, except i havent tested it out in warm weather after messing with it, its been in the 20s lately and i would have to pump 3 times and restart like 2-3 before its good, i believe that you should try to tinker with you choke for a bit, usually if its warm out i keep the choke wide open.

I wish mine was a manual choke

67mustang302

Hmmm, and here I am responding late to the thread, so here goes....


First, which Eddy top end kit? The Performer, or the Perf. RPM? If it's the RPM then the 650 is most definitely not too big. And even if it's the regular Perf. the 650 is a bit larger than needed, but still very workable.

Second, have you had a wideband on it and what do the plugs look like? What exactly is it doing, how does it drive, does it smell etc etc. And I mean everywhere, WOT, rpm range, part throttle, accel etc. What exactly is it doing?

And 3rd, why no Holley recommendations? Personally I don't recommend Holleys per se most of the time, just because they're low quality for the money you pay and they still use old technology(simplistic metering packages, straight leg boosters etc) on their carbs. But if you have an aversion to Holley's because you think they leak fuel or "fall out of tune" then you need to slap whoever told you that nonsense and ignore them. Some older Holley designs were problematic, but for the most part it's a tried and true design. Typically I personally recommend Holley architecture carbs, but not necessarily Holley(I use a Quick Fuel myself).

That said, the tried and true Autolite is actually a very good carb. HOWEVER, be aware that those carbs were designed and calibrated for the stock engines they came on....and occasionally may not work well or at all on certain engine packages.

And just as a for instance of how difficult it can be to get a carb package set up correctly....my car has been one of the small exceptions. Heads, cam, tri-y headers etc etc(ask for more details if you want them), street/track car set up mostly for road racing/autox and high performance street use/daily driver. But the combination of the small port heads, custom cam, tri-y's and a long rod setup has made it an absolute tuning NIGHTMARE. It was built to generate a crapton of torque all over the place, including down low for corner exit power; and as a consequence has a tremendous amount of airflow at low rpm relative to high rpm.

It basically had an issue at WOT in the 2-3k rpm range where the boosters would come on so strongly that the engine would drown in fuel. I was seeing 10:1 on the wideband, but my sensor can't read under 10:1(it may have been as low as 7 or 8:1). It would lay over, sputter, misfire, pop, bang, bog, buck and sometimes outright try to die. Long story short, tuning it has involved switching to pro-billet 5 emulsion metering blocks which are typically only used on race cars. The nature of my engine however required it, the extra emulsion was necessary to bleed enough air into the mains(which is what emulsion packages do, all carbs have them) at the right rpm to flatten the fuel delivery out. As a result, I'm effectively running a high end racing carburetor package on my street car, since nothing out of the box would even come close to working right. Still need to do some more tuning on it, but that's what was needed.

There's no way an Autolite or a standard Holley etc will work on my car, period. None of them have an emulsion package that's even remotely close. Even the road race calibration the pro blocks came with was not close. The only carb then that will work on my engine is either a Holley type with fully adjustable 5 emulsion blocks, or Webbers which use changeable emulsion tubes(but are hella expensive to set up on a V8).

Soooo......that said, see above and respond to what it does, plugs etc. Also what timing is it running, idle, max, curve etc.

Your carb may work fine on your setup, but it just needs some tuning. Or it might need a different carb altogether. Once you add headers and accessories on an engine and slap a trans behind it in a car, everything can change. Just because it works on a dyno or in someone else's car doesn't mean it will work in your's.

tx65coupe

Thats probably not going to happen. I don't even know of a place near hear that does that. I bet thats not cheap. How much does it cost.

tx65coupe

What should the timing actually be, is 14 degrees advance too much?

67mustang302

Timing depends on engine combination. Heads, cam, compression and so on and so forth. Also how much initial you can run is dictated by what timing curves your dizzy can run and what total and curve the engine will tolerate(assuming you're limited in that regard by the dizzy).

What is the set up?

tx65coupe

The engine is a 1990 fox body roller 302. It has Edelbrock heads with 1.7 roller rockers, and a mild roller cam. The distributor is a Pertronix billet distributor.

67mustang302

Define mild roller cam, and what compression, intake and exhaust?

It's likely going to want at least 12-14* initial, maybe more. I run my 302 at 12 initial, 32 total, and an additional 12 added in from vacuum advance, hooked up to manifold vacuum(not ported). Cranks on 12 and once running idles on 24. Generally the higher performance the engine is, the more timing it's going to need/want to idle.

And just as an fyi, most modern EFI cars idle on 20-30* timing.

Again though(in addition to the above), what do plugs look like, what is the car doing, how does it drive?