Dennis Marks

I have a 1965 Coupe that was a frame-off (unibody) restoration. I currently have a 1980 stock 302 in it. Updates are: Wilwood 12" disc brake system on all 4 wheels, Spec clutch and pressure plate, Robert Yates Racing flywheel, new proto-type posi-rear end with 3.92 gears, 17", AR 500 wheels with BF Goodrich Super-Sport tires. I have a 5-speed in it but will hopefully change to a Keisler Engineering 5 or 6 speed as soon as the new ones hit the market. I want to add some more power. In searching the internet, especially since the 1980 block was not one of the better years for blocks, it seems a crate engine costs less than building it myself. I know nothing about engine builders, especially since it has been over 40 years since my hot rod days. I have also learned how technical everything has gotten, so here is the question. Who has the best bang for the buck? I would like to get at least 325 HP +. I have looked and read a lot and it seems Tuff Dawg Engines has several from 328-375 HP for under $3400. Phoenix has about the same for $3500-$4000. This is a street car. What experince have you had with those, and is there any better deals out there?

Timspony

Welcome to MF! ...if you stay with a 302 block, stroke it to 347...otherwise go 351W

JIM5.0

Welcome to the board!

Heck, if you dare to switch out the engine, go BIG BLOCK! To stay within budget, hit the salvage yards, you sometimes can get a great deal on great block. You sometimes just might find a rare gem, a classic 427 or 429 even.

Anyway, if you get a 460, try to get one in 4 bolt main caps. And then bring it to a machining shop for cleaning, inspection, and bore out the worn cylinders and rehone, slap in newer pistons top match the new bore, etc, and you could very well build a great short block within the $3400 range. Forged rods and pistons and all.

mr_velocity

Rebuild what you have and slap a set of TrickFlow or AFR heads on it. With a decent cam you'll easily make the numbers your looking for.

69FECoupe

A couple of things.... He has a 65, a big block FE or 385 series won't fit unless he removes the shock towers. Not something you would want to do to a fully restored car. Also, 460's never came with 4 bolt main caps. Some 429's (super cobra jet) yes.

jspagna1

Agreed. Is it EFI or Carbed?

Dennis Marks

Carbed

JMD

Welcome...

IDK, your 80 block is probably good to 400 450 HP, but the point you raise about a crate engine being cheaper than you can build one is somewhat valid.

But as mentioned, an otherwise stock engine with the right aftermarket heads (& intake) will make loads of power. IMO the best bang for the buck is aftermarket heads.

I have done them both, we built Jim's 408 using a stroker kit, and I bought an assembled shortblock for my 408, both run great with no issues to date, of course neither has many miles, and mine has not been outside the yard.....

Building your own will provide the peace of mind of KNOWING what components have been used, and buying will give you the peace of mind of a guarantee of sorts, if it is honored....

Jonk67

With the money spent on a prototype 9", Wilwood 4wh. disc brakes, new Keisler 5/6sp. (at least $2500?). I'd look at a reputable engine builder, why skimp on the engine? Everything else is overbuilt for it. I'd look at KeithCraft first and compare what you get (reputation/warranty) and compare it to the price of an unknown builders price/ reputation/ warranty.
http://www.keithcraft.com/ourengines1.html

There are also dozens of shops in NC, attend your local Mustang clubs next meeting and ask owners who they used and if they're happy.

Jon

001mustang

My vote:

I would Cam up w/ those 3.92 gears. Don't have to worry so much about stalling from red light with the low rpm low torque you get from big cam.

I would pick 302 for 65 and 351W for 67. 65 engine compartment is tighter and I like a little room. The 302 is a tad lighter so handling will be a tad more balanced. Can't lie the 351W low end torque is satisfying; still I'd pick 302.

I would go solid roller lifter for sure. Would prefer stroked. Highest RPM can afford and pick carb accordingly. Match w/ hi RPM intake. Weight disadvantage but I'm ok w/ CI head for durability and cost. Too much money then Al head as well.

Make sure header ports/gaskets match head port shape and size.

Without a doubt; thick flange ceramic coated SS headers. I'm ok w/ shorties.

I like 2 1/2" H-pipe sound and raspy muffler as opposed to mello bass muffler.