65mechanic

Whats up guys. Cruising my classic around town tonight I burnt out the clutch a little. I had music blaring so I guess I couldn't hear the engine real well. It's got an inline 6 cyl. with a non-syncro 3 spd and the clutch never really felt like it would grab exactly right in the first place. Anyhow I was turning at a stop light and I rode the clutch a little and then hit the gas and the car revved up pretty high and of course wasn't moving very well for maybe 10-15 seconds and then slipped up the road for maybe 10-15 seconds. I got out and smelled some clutch burn and got back in it. I didn't really let it sit but I took it really easy back to my house. After about an hour I got back in it and it felt like normal. I got in second gear and jerked the gas pedal a little and the car thudded like the clutch was grabbing. I was just wondering if this could have severely shortened the life of the clutch, flywheel, and/or pressure plate? Oh also the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate only have about 2000 miles on them. Thanks in advance for the feedback. -Joe

001mustang

My uncle had a 3spd 66 fastback that ate clutches for lunch back in the 70's.

My I6 200 clutches lasted several years with daily driving.

The flywheels can get heat checking after years of repeated abuse. Sometimes cracks are so deep the can't be turned out.

Doubt if you ruined it in a day. Not the best clutches though. I upgraded my 200 I6 3 spd with centerforce clutch and rollerized linkages and pedal shaft. Not to mention a slight engine upgrade.

I'm driving a non-sync 66 GMC. Must come to dead complete stop before shifting into 1st. I haven't been able to sync it w/ double clutching.

Can you down shift your non-syncro w/ double clutching?

Recon111

Sounds like one of the ears on the throw out bearing has come off the fork or broke off. This will cause the bearing to ride weird on the pressure plate and have a slip or jerking effect on the clutch. Take the inspection cover off and look at the bearing to fork relationship.
Then you can slide up the road and jerk the gas pedal a little.

65mechanic

Well, I don't think there's anything broken in there. It just doesn't feel like its ever grabbed nicely. Rolling up to a stop light right before I come to a complete stop I can wedge it in first with little to no grinding. But if I wait to put it in 1st after I've stopped it will grind pretty bad. From 1st to 2nd is flawless and when I go into 3rd it does make a grinding sound but goes in pretty easy. I'm not really sure I'd like to spend a ton of money on getting a 6 cyl to hook up right because I've got a 302 (not rebuilt yet) sitting around. Although, the I6 I've got in now has been bored out, its got a double barrel weber carb, and dual headers (from 6=8) and I would like for it to be right. If you can 001mustang let me know what best upgrades I can do to the linkage and pedal shafts to help it out a little. I'll try to get some pictures up so you can see what I'm working with. thanks.

65mechanic

Z-Bar Linkage


Mounted a spring to try to get some stronger feedback from the pedal. (works okay)


Here's the ol' 3spd




Here she is.

001mustang

Is your trans a factory non-syncro or just malfunctioning due clutch not releasing or worn out trans? I've always wondered why Steve double clutched Bulllit; I thought all Mustang 4spds were were synced in 1968.

I adjust clutch to produce minimum TO bearing travel while making sure TO bearing is not rotating when foot off pedal.
Goal is to minimize stress on TO bearing fulcrum, clutch linkage, and pedal bushing. I've replaced broken fulcrum a few times on I6 stangs.
If pressure plate starts getting hard better to replace or TO fulcrum will fail.

I upgraded 67 Must and 66 GMC to diaphram pressure plates; much better.
Verify TO fulcrum arm geometry before button up.

Rollerizing clutch linkage. I did it the enjoyable but slower way. My linkage is almost perfect except it sometimes makes a springy popping noise that is coming from between the lower adjust rod point and TO bearing. I think the adjust rod pointed end wallows around inside fulcrum arm cup socket. Will improve this needle/cup interface as time allows.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...im-joints.html

A very easy and fast Z bar upgrade is to install sintered bronze bushings:

blazerdup

Hey 65 Mechanic, what kind of carb do you have on your car and where did you get it? I am having trouble with mine and looking for a better one with an electric choke. Thanks

2+2GT

That lower clutch spring is massive compared to the correct spring, which is available. Conversion to another flywheel is unlikely. He has the small bell and "salad bowl" flywheel. Recently, the clutch for this became available new.