Question on Performer 2121 connections on a '67 289
#11
Scott,
I really didn't want to pull the distributor, but the more I read, the more it seems necessary. A local machine shop did the bottom end for us - we discussed using plenty of lube - especially since it was going to be several weeks (months) to build. I think we're okay there. We used a bunch more when we installed the rods / lifters etc.
Thanks for the tips,
I really didn't want to pull the distributor, but the more I read, the more it seems necessary. A local machine shop did the bottom end for us - we discussed using plenty of lube - especially since it was going to be several weeks (months) to build. I think we're okay there. We used a bunch more when we installed the rods / lifters etc.
Thanks for the tips,
#12
that not fully cured ceramic coating thing is a bunch of whooehhh...imho.
even a fully cured ceramic coating will be compromised when operated too much over 1000F.
operating a loose tuned old engine for 20 minutes (no air flow) at 2000RPM will make headers get well over 1000F. try it at night and see if your headers don't glow.
high rpm operation of tight new untuned engine will make headers even hotter; the coating (cured or not) will suffer. high temp paint...forget about it.
typical ceramic coatings are rated 1000 to 1800F but can discolor b4 fail point.
cylinder temps are in the 4000F range; higher ex flow rates, improper A/F, tight pistons, etc will sky rocket header temps.
...i love my ceramic coated ss headers...just in case u couldn't tell
even a fully cured ceramic coating will be compromised when operated too much over 1000F.
operating a loose tuned old engine for 20 minutes (no air flow) at 2000RPM will make headers get well over 1000F. try it at night and see if your headers don't glow.
high rpm operation of tight new untuned engine will make headers even hotter; the coating (cured or not) will suffer. high temp paint...forget about it.
typical ceramic coatings are rated 1000 to 1800F but can discolor b4 fail point.
cylinder temps are in the 4000F range; higher ex flow rates, improper A/F, tight pistons, etc will sky rocket header temps.
...i love my ceramic coated ss headers...just in case u couldn't tell
#13
pros and cons to drill pre-lube; judgment call. i've always used drill w/o issue.
best to break in engine w/ old cut top VC so you can verify each rocker getting oil during break in. I use card board flapper on top so oil wont escape.
incorrectly applied assembly lube can restrict oil passages.
best to break in engine w/ old cut top VC so you can verify each rocker getting oil during break in. I use card board flapper on top so oil wont escape.
incorrectly applied assembly lube can restrict oil passages.
#14
Engines see a little more heat during break in due to increased friction, as all the components haven't yet broken in, or worn into a running pattern. This is the same reason you use break in lube.
Any machined part, ANY, that ever runs in contact with another will develop a proper "wear pattern" over time. This is the case with any mechanical system, and the reason when you disassemble/reassemble something its best to put parts back where they came from. When that wear pattern initially develops, it creates friction, creating heat.
Any machined part, ANY, that ever runs in contact with another will develop a proper "wear pattern" over time. This is the case with any mechanical system, and the reason when you disassemble/reassemble something its best to put parts back where they came from. When that wear pattern initially develops, it creates friction, creating heat.
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