9 inch rear tear town help
#11
Knock it loose using a chisel and hammer (light taps). Sometimes a thick bladed 1" putty knife can be used if you can't get a chisel in the crack yet.
I've welded drain plugs in as well. I weld in a steel 1/8" pipe thread bung on the bottom side of the center, at an angle to the short side axle. This way you can tilt the rear to get the last bit of fluid to drain out. Make sure your welding is good so it won't leak, and then go back and dress the inside with die grinder to clean up the sharp edges. You can then use any style plug that is 1/8" pipe thread.
This works great, I do it on all the race car rears I build. I also safety wire it during competition so it doesn't come loose under the severe racing conditions. I've never safety wired the one on my street car, and it never leaks or comes loose.
I've welded drain plugs in as well. I weld in a steel 1/8" pipe thread bung on the bottom side of the center, at an angle to the short side axle. This way you can tilt the rear to get the last bit of fluid to drain out. Make sure your welding is good so it won't leak, and then go back and dress the inside with die grinder to clean up the sharp edges. You can then use any style plug that is 1/8" pipe thread.
This works great, I do it on all the race car rears I build. I also safety wire it during competition so it doesn't come loose under the severe racing conditions. I've never safety wired the one on my street car, and it never leaks or comes loose.
#12
Stupid question here, but I just started to tear down my rear as well. Bought it in two pieces, one with the housing and the axles and a separate 3rd member. My question is how do you get the axles out of the housing? I've been pulling and pulling, but they just won't budge. Drums are off and I am not sure what needs to come off next.
#13
67 rear axle
Hi Guys,
I have a 67 Coupe that I am rebuilding from the ground up to a fastback. Vin code off the original plate for the axle is an "O" with a trans code of "W" for a C4 and an engine code for a 289 2BBL. I followed up on it and what I have found is the "O" code doesnt show up till 69....Any clue of what I have? It is a 5 bolt pattern
Thanks....
I have a 67 Coupe that I am rebuilding from the ground up to a fastback. Vin code off the original plate for the axle is an "O" with a trans code of "W" for a C4 and an engine code for a 289 2BBL. I followed up on it and what I have found is the "O" code doesnt show up till 69....Any clue of what I have? It is a 5 bolt pattern
Thanks....
#14
stangman70, if ur drums are off, and u unbolted the retainer plate, then u just have to pull the axles and they should slide out. mine took some effort to come out. my chilton manual actually recommended i use a slide hammer, because the bearings don't budge to easily. i pulled my axles off first, then the third member. i am a little confused on how ur thirdmember is out but ur axles are in. i though the axles go into the third member...
#15
wiremania, im not sure. start ur own thread on this topic, u wont get many responses as this thread is about my rear build up. what ur doing is referred to in the forum world as "thread jacking" lol
#18
Built67 I bought a housing that had the 3rd member out but still had the axles. So I bought a 3rd member to replace the missing one. I wanted to clean up the housing and have it painted to get it ready to put into the car at a later date.
#19
If the rear hasn't been apart in a long time you'll need a hammer to get the axles out. Make sure all 4 retaining nuts are off, then seperate the plates with a chisel/putty knife. Then start beating on the axle flange to unseat the bearings and get the axles to come out. When you put it back together don't forget the axle reatiner plate gaskets, and make sure to get the plates right side up.