Iskwezm

this is good to know......although i dont have ANY gravel roads around here.

My brakes are downright scary and i need to do this.I think im going to use a billet CPP master since my neighbor works for them and i can get a discount.

kalli

if the rears lock up first the car tends to overtake you, as in simple physics a locked wheel has less traction then a rolling wheel that is braking.
that is downright scary.
no gravel then go to car park. i'm just saying wet because on wet carpark you nearly feel this instantly. you can test this at slow speeds already. good idea on gravel though if you have such roads

scott_m_mil

I finished installing the dual master setup today. Tomorrow I'll bleed the lines and test it all out.

The only thing that gave me trouble was switching actuator rods, when I removed the new one from the 67's master cylinder it broke the retaining clip. I plan to find a thick o-ring that will fit it. It should do the job.

It was also necessary to purchase a few extra adapter flair nuts. Ford used different size fittings for each reservoir so they wouldn't be hooked up wrong going down the line. As a result I have an adapter at each fitting on the MC and a 3/16 flair nut on the brake line going into each.

I was able to purchase the MC rebuilt from O'reilly's for $17 (+$15 core). I also picked up some 3/16 line and the few necessary fittings. All and all it only cost less than about $35 to do the conversion. Actually, it was cheaper than that for me because my younger brother is an employee I had to 'order' several MC's some were some funky Wagner style with a bolt down lid. The second one was a more typical flip cap style I was looking for.

Scott