beatlesrcool1964

Hello,

I'm hoping someone here can help me. A few years ago (when I was 17) I purchased a 66 Mustang with an inline 6. Last year my friend convinced me to rebuild my engine. I was having some overheating problems, major oil leaks and white smoke on startup. We dismantled the engine and replaced all the seals and cleaned everything as we went. I sent my cylinder head to be redone and was told it was a head for a 170 and it was cracked. I confirmed my engine was a 200 (5 freeze plugs) and received a new head. My friend wanted me to do a ton of performance upgrades, but I couldn't afford it so we discussed it and I decided to upgrade my carburetor to a 2 barrel Motocraft 2100 from a donor car. I also replaced the stock radiator with an aluminum 2 row. I also have upgraded with a brake booster.

I am having some issues:

The idle is very high and even with adjusting the idle low as seemingly possible it still seems high, even if I put on the original carb.

When I put the car into Reverse or Drive the engine dies without a stumble.

The engine seems to get too hot. The exhaust pipe and manifold are red where it meets the engine after only running a few minutes.

There is an oil leak at the rear seal even after replacing the seal. There is also a slow coolant leak and I cant seem to find the source.

The brake pedal depresses more than halfway before receiving any resistance.

Any help is much appreciated! Thanks in advance!

1966 Mustang
200 ci
C4 Automatic Transmission
2 Row aluminum radiator
Brake booster
All else is stock (as far as I know)

03BottleFedGT

idle sounds like your fast idle is set to high and you slow idle is set to low. also sounds like your timing is way off, double check it and make sure you are at 6-8 degrees. as for your coolant leak could be many things but sounds like a head gasket to me.

beatlesrcool1964

Thanks for your response. I'll double check the idles. The timing would make sense. I'll have to borrow a timing light, I've never done that before besides adjusting the distributor... The head gasket would make sense, but it was just installed. Do you think it would be damaged because of these other issues? Thanks again.

rtintwo

[QUOTE=beatlesrcool1964;7665419]Hello,

The engine seems to get too hot. The exhaust pipe and manifold are red where it meets the engine after only running a few minutes.

There is also a slow coolant leak and I cant seem to find the source.

QUOTE]

Ok these two things are bad signs. The reason the exaust is getting red hot is because you are running very lean. This can be caused by a bad vacuum leak, low float or blocked carb passage. These can also cause some of your other symptoms. What is disturbing is that red hot metal can lead to a crack or bad head gasket. A slow coolant leak that doesnt have any external signs is also a sign of a crack or head gasket.

I would recommend starting with making sure you have a solid engine before spending any money on anything else. You should be able to rent a combustion gas tester from a parts store. The first link has an example of one, the second has a small description of how it works. If the engine passes and you dont have any cracks or bad gaskets then you can fix your vacuum leaks, rebuild the carb, set timing and tune the carb and you should have most of your problems fixed.

http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-C.../dp/B000NPDL76

http://www.tpub.com/content/construc.../14264_227.htm

beatlesrcool1964

The stores here are closed now, I'll look into renting the tester tomorrow. Thank you.
In regards to running lean. I'm wondering if that may have to do something with my fuel filter. The threads on the carb where you install the fuel filter were stripped and the spot was leaking gas. I re-threaded them today and have set up a custom nipple that fits in the new spot, I will just need to get a separate filter. I have not started the car back up today because it got so hot. I may try in another hour.

The timing definitely makes sense as an issue. A former coworker of mine suggested that the overheating could also be related to the timing. I have adjusted the idle on the car all the way back and will try to start it soon. I will update ASAP. Thanks again both of you.

rtintwo

Bad threads on the filter wont cause a lean condition because the filter is between the pump and the float and has constant pressure against it. Bad threads will only leak.

Advanced timing can increase exhaust temp but not to the point of red hot. The car will stop running before then.

Just for my curiousity can you take a pic or describe what screw you are adjusting for the idle and what adapter plate are you using for the 2100?

beatlesrcool1964

I'm adjusting idle with:
http://www.gottafishcarburetors.com/Tuning%20001.jpg

The adapter is from Classic Inlines:
http://classicinlines.com/prodimages...orInsert1L.jpg

I have not been able to start the car again. The battery died (I left the key in the on position, Doh!) So I have it charging now.

Another issue came up with the carb. My custom "filter" setup does not seem to accept fuel. I'll need to wait until the battery is charged to know for sure.

Canary94GT

I believe leaving your key in the on position (for even just a minute) without the engine running can fry your ignition coil and/or points, so you should be careful not to do that in the future. In fact, that may even be your problem unless you are sure the battery is dead.

1slow67

If keeping it in the on position will kill coils without the engine being on, I should have killed tons of them by now.

rtintwo

Thanks i just wanted to make sure you were adjusting the curb idle screw and you are.

Im not familiar with that adapter plate but i dont see any holes for the two manifold studs the 1100 used. Am i missing them in the pic or did you have to drill your own holes for them? Im asking because i am wondering if you have a vacuum leak from your adapter plate.