ChameleonAlley

What do you guys think of this Edelbrock package combined with the Hipo headers, and cam like suggested from 2x2? http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...arb_kits.shtml

Also, would it be more powerful going with a 800 cfm carb over a 600?

Just doing some searching and researching, so not to sure if this is a good deal or not?

2+2GT

Yeah, those flat-tappet 289's really sucked.

MustangFTW

If stick with a 600 or 650, make sure you port the heads!

ChameleonAlley

Is this the right Afr 165 head, and is it compatible with the cam from 2x2 and the edelbrock package?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AFR-SMALL-BL...ht_3579wt_1395

Thanks again guys!! This is all new to me, so I'm still learning these parts and whether they are compatible, and if they are a good deal that will add significant power. Thanks!!

2+2GT

Anything bigger than 650 on a 289/302, you better have an 8000 rpm redline. I had a 3-2V intake for years, ran great, if I was careful. At 785 cfm, all I had to do was push too hard, and it would bog BIG-time.

ChameleonAlley

Good info! So you think I'm better off being safe and keeping it at the 600-650 range? Will this still bring much more power? Do you know if that Edelbrock package will work with the Afr 165's and the cams you suggested?

ChameleonAlley

Also, is there a place to buy this cam: C7FE-6250-A I'm not finding much on the web. Is it only an original Cobra part, or is there an aftermarket version of it? I was reading here http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/F...ML/011120.html that Compcams carries a newer version which is supposed to be better called the 282s? But when I looked at their site, they have a lot of 282s's and I'm not sure which is the right cam. http://www.compperformancegroupstore...CC&Search=282s

frdnut

To make good power you need a complete package..Simply bolting one part on will not likely give you much of an increase..On the flip side one wrong part can ruin whatever gains you may have had with a collective bunch of other parts.....Can you define what your goal is for the motor..HP level or a 1/4 mile ET or?..Also how "driveable" does it need to be?.Does it have power brakes?..Does the car have an automatic trans?..Stall convertor?..What rear gear ratio?

2+2GT

The 600 will produce power only if you also upgrade the cam and heads to handle the larger flow rating. A 600 would run lousy on a stock engine, for example.

Before you spend, say, a thousand dollars on heads, read this:
289/302 Cylinder Head Port Matching

Beware of anyone telling you "newer" cams are "better". Cams are crafted to give specific performance in a particular configuration. You should be able to get the C7FE-6250-A from Glazier/Nolan, but I'd hesitate to use that in a daily driver unless you drive on open roads, not city, have a manual trans, and have a rear axle in the 3.50-4.11 range. It's also mechanical, meaning the lifters will need adjusting every 3000 miles. I did this in my daily driver for 20 years, but it's not for everybody.

There is an excellent compromise, the C9OZ-6250-C, which is Ford's own hydraulic version of the C3OZ-C 289 High Performance cam.

I have used and recommended that one as a daily driver, and just recently I drove another car with it in August. 600 cfm, C9OZ-C, ported stock heads, HP manifolds, T5 5-speed. If you had gone with me on that test drive, you'd already be ordering the parts.

ChameleonAlley

So, basically I'm trying to put together a list of the BEST parts and things to do, so I can do them all at once.

I would consider the car a daily driver even though it will not be driven daily. It will not be drag raced or anything like that, but I would love for it to do this if I wanted it to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8jLh...36947027AB5B51

It is an automatic transmission. I don't want to have to do maintenance to the engine after doing the upgrades to the engine, so it looks like the C3OZ-C 289 High Performance cam is the way to go? If I'm understanding right, if I do the port matching, than the AFR 165 are not needed? Is the porting something that can be done without the engine having to be removed? Can most car shops do this/know how to do this?

So, if I'm understanding correctly, the port matching + the Edelbrock intake and carb + the high performance cam + the hipo exhaust manifold will do the trick?

I don't have a targeted horsepower ideal, I guess I would just like the most horsepower that is reasonable on a daily driver that would best mimic a converted 1968 Mustang to a GT350.

Again, I really appreciate all the info!! This is not only schooling me in what I'll need, but being able to reference this thread for parts and info is great. My next project is doing this engine, and it sounds best to do all the parts at once.