Need some info about frame rails.
#11
That repair CAN be made without screwing your paint, although you will need to work at it. I managed to replace the frame and the entire floor on a Chevelle and only had to touch up a few areas. (small chips mostly due to getting fenders and hood lined up)
A donor car would work well, but IMO you could replace the bad areas with new metal about as easy, (no dis-assembly). A jig would be ideal for going back together, but that aint going to happen. Level the car before dis-assembly, measure the hell out of it, keeping in mind that it might not be close to specs, and then tack and measure a lot in re assembly.
I think the exercise of reasonable care will get you back very close to specs.
http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/g...3DDSCN1845.jpg
This was about a 60 day project...
A donor car would work well, but IMO you could replace the bad areas with new metal about as easy, (no dis-assembly). A jig would be ideal for going back together, but that aint going to happen. Level the car before dis-assembly, measure the hell out of it, keeping in mind that it might not be close to specs, and then tack and measure a lot in re assembly.
I think the exercise of reasonable care will get you back very close to specs.
http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/g...3DDSCN1845.jpg
This was about a 60 day project...
Last edited by JMD; 11-27-2011 at 10:37 PM.
#12
Reminds me of my car, still not fixed someday. I was thinking the same thing how do you support it with out getting much out of spec. I was looking around and saw Johns mustang have a full lower with floor pans and frame rails even has the rockerpanels. I thought it would be great, but prices is a little too steep around $2200. Im thinking of saving money to make it a little easier and replace the whole floor.
#13
Here is a guy on the vintage Mustang forum that just did a similar front frame rail repair.
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...onnection.html
Lynn
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...onnection.html
Lynn
#16
torque box their easy to do in an afternoon. Require some trimming for a good fit that top lip where the side view pointer is pointing to i usually cut off and weld angle iron to it to make it go the other way so i can get it in closer to the floor pans. Idk why it goes up but i was installing them with the floor pans already in.
Last edited by jp1967stang; 11-28-2011 at 10:09 AM.
#17
I have a feeling that FTW is going to need a few more parts than posted, my educated guess (judging from what is visible) is that the entire floorpan and cowl are going to need replacing as well.
Rust this aggressive is usually widespread and extensive.
The car in my avatar looked similar, and is largely now new below the knee.
I doubt that this can be done in a couple of weekends.
For this car I would totally dis-assemble, inspect, evaluate the situation, and then move ahead knowing the task ahead.
I could be wrong about the extent of the damage, but I see full floorpans, wheel houses, torque boxes, rockers, and a cowl needing replacement, "more or less "mid-shin down" if you will.
This kind of project should not be stared with an unrealistic timeline, it will be hard enough for a regular car guy to get through while knowing there is a big task ahead.
Rust this aggressive is usually widespread and extensive.
The car in my avatar looked similar, and is largely now new below the knee.
I doubt that this can be done in a couple of weekends.
For this car I would totally dis-assemble, inspect, evaluate the situation, and then move ahead knowing the task ahead.
I could be wrong about the extent of the damage, but I see full floorpans, wheel houses, torque boxes, rockers, and a cowl needing replacement, "more or less "mid-shin down" if you will.
This kind of project should not be stared with an unrealistic timeline, it will be hard enough for a regular car guy to get through while knowing there is a big task ahead.
Last edited by JMD; 11-28-2011 at 11:17 AM.
#19
A rust free body to get things started will put you head and shoulders ahead as far as workload and financing are concerned.
Jim's 66 (my sons car) was a lifelong NM car that was for all intensive purposes ENTIRELY rust free. This car allowed us to move forward with the rest of the car "right now" making a quick and relatively inexpensive build (for what he ended up with) in spite of the I-6 conversion.
By doing most of our own work, the car was finished for what lots of people spend on body repairs and paint.
There are still plenty of clean rust free Mustangs out in the desert. A whole car can still be found for what the body metal to fix your will cost. Jim paid $3,000 for his 66, worth every penny. (Was a running, driving, and fairly nice car)
Jim's 66 (my sons car) was a lifelong NM car that was for all intensive purposes ENTIRELY rust free. This car allowed us to move forward with the rest of the car "right now" making a quick and relatively inexpensive build (for what he ended up with) in spite of the I-6 conversion.
By doing most of our own work, the car was finished for what lots of people spend on body repairs and paint.
There are still plenty of clean rust free Mustangs out in the desert. A whole car can still be found for what the body metal to fix your will cost. Jim paid $3,000 for his 66, worth every penny. (Was a running, driving, and fairly nice car)
Last edited by JMD; 11-28-2011 at 02:13 PM.
#20
I was thinking the same thing as jdm. A few nice cars did come up on craigslist that might be worth looking at. That 67 would be great if your car does prove too far gone i was going to look at it as the price is good if all it needs is quarters and floor pans and maybe a apron or two up front. Other wise that 65 looks like a nice easy project if its in the same condition. Just an idea let us know more about the condition of ur car.
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...723873541.html
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/cs...724482641.html
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...723873541.html
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/cs...724482641.html