kalli

hi all,

got 2.25" aluminzed tubing in my car with flowmaster exhausts.
Headers are stainless steel.

last year I organised two new boxes to replace the flowmaster 40s.
2.25" as well.

I was thinking to re-do the whole systems from headers back. with H-pipe or X-pipe (not sure yet).

however the fella who'd help me with the welding says that was a bit stupid, because all stainless steel ubes I can buy here are 2" or 2.5", nearly impossible to get 2.25"

I can not replace the exhaust boxes for 2.5" tubing as I got them from Germany (huge shipping)

so what should I do? (headers are 3" collectors)

- use 2.5" tubing from headers back and reduce at boxes?
- weld the new boxes in place and leave the rest of exhaust system as is (galvanised instead of stainless steel front to back)?
- do it properly, bite the bullet and get tubes and bends shipped from UK?
- any other ideas?

Kalli

jojobanks

if it's that hard to get 2 1/4" exhaust tubing there and your current exhaust isn't in bad shape I would just replace the mufflers and be done with it. Or you could run 2 1/2" from the collector back to the muffler input and step it down to 2 1/4" from there.

guitarman376

I agree with jojo, just replace the mufflers if your current system is solid. I learned my something for the day....boxes=mufflers!

tx65coupe

Its about time you get those new mufflers on there! LOL...

I wouldn't think it'd be that difficult to get 2.25 inch pipe there. How much will it cost to get some 2.25 inch pipe?

How bad is the exhaust you have now? If its really hacked up, I'd redo it. If not leave it.

Oh, go with an H pipe. It sounds so much better. Do you not have any cross over currently?

kalli

Hi tx65coupe ... about time alright ...
exhaust is in not too bad shape, but I made the mistake of not measuring whats under there. basically it's the other way around it's 2.25" tubing and the boxes are 2.5" (so it's widened before exhaust and reduced after again)
I have proper 2.25" boxes but I don't think I can get them in as otherwise that would be a hackjob.
I'll go and measure.
I currently have a a H-pipe (selfmade) but If I had to do it again, I'd probably make a X-pipe out of two 90 degree bends.

the tubing I could get from UK is about 13 punds per meter and they only sell in lengths of a meter.
so kinda like pieces of 3 foot max for 20USD each ... and that's not even shipped.
If I would go with 2.5" i'd go to any metal dealer here and ask for dairy pipe. They have plenty of that here. they all have 2" and 2.5" but noone carries 2.25"

I could keep the old system, but I was thinking since the headers and boxes are stainless, it's a shame the rest of the tubing is then galvanised ...

maybe I'll just hack them in, drive for another year and then do it properly ... I don't know. I'll go and lie under it and measure again

MustangFTW

20$ for 3 feet is what I pay at the local cart part place, it's galvanized but whose going to see it?

Or start a new exhaust fund and save up little by little til next year, it won't hurt as much then

JMD

either way, you will need to step down from the 3" collector size, Dealing with what you have practically available, I like the idea of gong with 2.5 to the boxes.

If you are planning to fab up the entire setup, I would stay with 2.5" for as long as practical while going over the axle, reducing to 2 1/4" only as needed for space requirements.

If you are going with a kit, the whole size thing is wide open, only requiring you to additionally reduce at either end of the boxes. Not a big deal.

I kind of like running the tube from scratch, although in my experience, modifying a kit is cheaper....

I bought this video before running my exhaust,

http://www.amazon.com/Working-Tubing.../dp/B003FR81MO

it helped a lot. For my application there were NO "out of the box" solutions, and everything was very close. It made for an interesting first attempt at running tube.

I have to add that I haven't done anything much more rewarding on cars than running this exhaust.



I used 2 1/2" tube in this, It would have been a lot easier to fit 2" or 2 1/4, if I had it to do over again, I would run 2 1/4" from end to end... but 2 1/4" is readily available here....

tx65coupe

My headers, down pipes, mufflers, and tips are stainless. The intermediate pipes, H pipe, and tail pipes are aluminized. It doesn't bother me, and I'm kinda picky about alot of things.

There is absolutely no way I would put an X pipe on mine. The H pipes sound so much nicer.

Here 2.25 is a common size, and all muffler shops and auto parts stores usually have it. I don't see why they don't have it there. Have you been to a muffler or exhaust shop to ask if they do, or just parts stores?

Post back with how long of 2.25 you need on each side to splice the new mufflers in. Maybe I can go get some fresh scraps from the exhaust shop I go to and send them to you.

kalli

JMD:that's one hell of a frame there :-] looking good. however running exhaust through the fram (seen that in corbvettes plenty of times) is about the biggest PITA I've ever come across :-)

Hi tx!, that's a really nice offer, but i think the shipping is the bad bit. if the pipes were same price here as in Uk i'd happily pay for them. but I guess I'll have to dosh out 50+$ just for having them shipped.
I actually never asked an exhaust shop. Will try that. I only asked metal suppliers (where all the farmers get their dairy pipes from).

But even at that, I think I might just do that:
- stick with 2.5" between collector and box (muffler)
- 2.25 after the muffler ... or just run turndowns for a while

I wanted to drive over to buddys place to measure what I'll need, but the car won't start now.
I have about 3 other cars to fix, so I guess the mustang will be off the road now for a while ...

tx65coupe

Eww, turndowns will drive you nuts.

Hopefully an exhaust shop will have it.