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4.6L 2V into a 1970 Cougar?

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Old 04-16-2012, 01:53 AM
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JC316
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Default 4.6L 2V into a 1970 Cougar?

Hey all, I just picked up a 1970 cougar that I am going to slowly restore into a daily driver. Since it's going to be a daily, I am going EFI and 5 speed, it's currently a 351c 2v and C6. I know all about how the 5.0L is the easiest swap and how it can make more power cheaper, but I really do like the modular family and more importantly, I know the mod motors.

Now, I already know that the 4V would require massive reworking of the front suspension, but what about the 2V? Took some measurements from my sisters 99GT and it LOOKS like the 2V will fit in between the shock towers with a touch of cushion on either side. Even if it will fit, I have other questions, mainly with the power steering and A/C. I live in Texas and this car is black, so retaining my factory A/C is a must, anyone know if it would work?

Next up is power steering, how would I go about hooking it up?
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:53 AM
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andrewmp6
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Every one i seen done took a shock tower notching or removing.The ac any shop should be able to make the lines to the compressor on it.Power steering probably the same way just make the lines.
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:22 AM
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JC316
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Thanks for the info. That solves two of the issues, now the only thing is fitting it, well that and finding a front sump oil pan that doesn't make my wallet cry. It dang sure looks like it would fit and just a quick measurement seems like it would fit.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:28 AM
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ozarks06
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A guy on modularfords put an 03/04 Mach 1 motor in a 68 (I think). He used a front sump pan (from Canton, which you will need) and notched the shock towers quite a bit. The 2V is not much narrower than the 4V. A Mustang 2 type kit might be easier and cheaper in the long run. You can get a Heidts, R&C, or TCI for about $2K with R&P and disc brakes. That's cheaper than adding those to a stock front suspension.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ozarks06
A guy on modularfords put an 03/04 Mach 1 motor in a 68 (I think). He used a front sump pan (from Canton, which you will need) and notched the shock towers quite a bit. The 2V is not much narrower than the 4V. A Mustang 2 type kit might be easier and cheaper in the long run. You can get a Heidts, R&C, or TCI for about $2K with R&P and disc brakes. That's cheaper than adding those to a stock front suspension.
The 2V is 28 and 5/8 inches wide. The 4V is 30 inches. I thought the 67-68 engine bay was more narrow than a 69-70 engine bay?
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:03 PM
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ozarks06
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Here's the link:

http://www.modularfords.com/f30/03-m...-1967-a-44436/
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:50 PM
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JC316
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That actually give me hope. If he managed to stuff a 4V in there and still keep the towers, I might be able to get a 2V in easy.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:26 PM
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pascal
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Remember, those engine bays had the mighty Boss 429 in there.
I know the Factory had them notched out a bit but you can do the same thing.
Make it count, go with a 4v as the 2v performance is a joke IMO.


I own the same car but I got rid of the shock tower for suspension upgrade more than engine room at the time and I was lurking into putting a 5.4 4v from the early Navigator but I ended up using a 392 stroker out of a 351 Windsor block.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:51 PM
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craig71springsport
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I think either way you have a challenge on your hands. I know how enormous the engine bays on early 70's Ford's are, but still, that's the second widest engine Ford ever made supposedly. Not sure how it will be for clearance on the back of the block with the firewall either. That can probably be worked with. Stock shifter location might be a thing of the past with the 5 speed too.

If you do go ahead with it PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE post pics, I love mod motors in old cars!
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:59 PM
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Right now I am fixing the main issue, the floor pans. In the mean time, here are some pics of it.





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