how tight do i adjust my transmission bands
#2
You are supposed to back the nuts way off and adjust the stud. And you are supposed to use new nuts. Then torque the studs down with a torque wrench and a square drive socket to 10 foot pounds (or 120 inch pounds). Then loosen the rear band stud two full turns and loosen the front stud one full turn. Then hold each stud in place with an open end 5/16" wrench while tightening down each nut.
Many people don't have a torque wrench that reads down that low and don't care to buy one just to adjust their bands one time. And in many cases you can't get on the studs properly with a torque wrench with the C4 installed in the car.
In such cases you can tighten the studs "snug" with an open end wrench and then back them off the require dnumbe rof turns and call it good.
Many people don't have a torque wrench that reads down that low and don't care to buy one just to adjust their bands one time. And in many cases you can't get on the studs properly with a torque wrench with the C4 installed in the car.
In such cases you can tighten the studs "snug" with an open end wrench and then back them off the require dnumbe rof turns and call it good.
#3
And to be more precise, IAW the 66 shop manual- the intermediate band adjustment stud (closest to the front of the trans) is tightened to 10FP and then backed out 1 3/4 turns and the low reverse band (rear left side of the trans) is tightened to 10FP then backed off 3 turns then as stated you hold the stud and re-tighten the lock nut.
(you can use a inch-pound torque wrench and convert the number - 10 ft-lbs =120 inch lbs
(you can use a inch-pound torque wrench and convert the number - 10 ft-lbs =120 inch lbs
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folivier
Tennessee Regional Chapter
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10-02-2015 05:32 AM