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1965 Mustang Fastback w/289 Carb. Problem???

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Old 07-31-2012, 06:10 AM
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crazyshuffle
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Default 1965 Mustang Fastback w/289 Carb. Problem???

My car has a Ellebrock 4bb. carb. Manual Choke. The problem is when I start it up with the choke on it runs great, but when I push the choke back in and start driving it, it feels like it is flooding or something. When I get going it runs fine, but as soon as I slow down at a Stop sign, it will cut off and I'll have to crank it again, usually in neutral. I just took it to a mechanic that cleaned it, and he said I just need to drive it some. I want the car to be dependable enough to drive some distances, so I don't know if I should get a New carb. or just drive it a lot for a while and see what happens?
Any ideas will be appreciated. By the way I've had the car 2 yrs and I try and drive or crank it every 2 weeks, but it has been so hot in NC lately it has sit a while.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:21 AM
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Pickles_99
 
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I just went through something like this. When the mechanic cleaned the carb, was it a complete rebuild and cleaning? At first I was just shooting some crab spray into mine, changing the filter, etc. Determined that wasn't good enough, so I tore the whole carb apart and cleaned it. Does the gas look clean in the float bowl? Any debris? How old is your gas tank? Turned out my tank was shot as well, full of rust particles, so replaced that as well.
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:04 AM
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crazyshuffle
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I don't know how he cleaned it,but he didn't rebuild it. I took it to another mechanic yesterday and he said it was fixable, so I won't need a new carb. He said it needed something to catch the debris, didn't have a filter that he could find. Also, he said it was flooding bad. He will get back to me on rebuild or whatever. Wish I understood more. I just drive' em fast.
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:28 AM
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OK, so sounds like your tank has the usual collection of rust particles at the bottom. If your not going to put a new tank in, always have an extra fuel filter (or two) with you. They can get clogged fast. Even with the filter my carb was getting dirty. Probably a good idea to never let the tank go below 1/4 as well. You could drain the tank as well, rather then put in a new one. Probably would help.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:06 AM
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crazyshuffle
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Got the car back, and it drives better than ever. He put a clear racing feul filter on it and cleaned the carb. He said it had no rust, but just a bunch of gunk. He also replaced a spark plug. Not sure if he adjusted anything to stop the flooding, but it runs great. He told me there shouldn't be any rust but to keep an eye for it in the filter.
Told him if I had time I would work for free just to learn more. I was always a big sports guy in school and didn't even know how to change the oil.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:24 AM
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kenash
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Originally Posted by crazyshuffle
Got the car back, and it drives better than ever. He put a clear racing feul filter on it and cleaned the carb. He said it had no rust, but just a bunch of gunk. He also replaced a spark plug. Not sure if he adjusted anything to stop the flooding, but it runs great. He told me there shouldn't be any rust but to keep an eye for it in the filter.
Told him if I had time I would work for free just to learn more. I was always a big sports guy in school and didn't even know how to change the oil.
Hi,
My advice.......
Unless you have "deep" pockets, put the same enthusiasm into learning about these old cars and their systems as you did in being a "big sports guy in school".
Many here started out as you, not knowing a coil from a solenoid. What kicked me in the **** many years ago (60s) was when I got a bill from the local dealership for tuning a carb I installed from a "Cobra Kit" in my '65 2+2. The total bill (other misc) was $125. I only grossed $100/week, at the time. I vowed that would never happen again. From that day forward, I sucked up every automotive repair guide, bought every shop manual for every car(s) I owned....including for 2 "YUGOS", which I still have ( not the YUGOS, just the manual) LOL!
Good Luck!
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