1967 Mustang Carb troubles
#1
1967 Mustang Carb troubles
Hey guys my name is Devon. I bought this 1967 Mustang about a year ago, and it's ran pretty decent, but over the year I've put another 3000$ into it. Well, I always knew my carb was leaking gas and EVERY other part on the car was 40 years old, so I'm sure the gaskets were worn out and there was dirt all inside it or something, so I decided to rebuild/clean it.
I bought a rebuild kit for it from Autozone and my dad helped me (I'm 21 years old, very little car experience aside from what my dad has taught me) and we managed to get it put back together with new gaskets, I cleaned the crap out of it, and all the other smaller parts like those little ***** and needle valve. Essentially, I'm 95% sure we put every part back the way it was.
Here comes my issue.
We installed it again, and the car would start, but it wouldn't stay idle. It would just sputter, then die immediately, or if I gave it enough gas it would stay idle for about a minute or less and just sputter then die on me. Neither of us are very "carb smart." My dad was hesitant at first, but we thought SURELY two of us could figure it out, but we're stuck and this is my only vehicle that I take to school and work.
I'll copy/paste a link to my photo bucket account that has pictures of the carb if yall would like to take a look at it.
http://s400.photobucket.com/albums/p...967%20Mustang/
FYI, when I cleaned it we got an oil pan (brand new, no oil in it) and we filled it with diesel gasoline and let the carb soak completely in it to get all this black crud and dirt off of it. I cleaned it small wire brush (copper maybe, I'm not sure) and I made sure it was clean as a whistle (I spent like an hour or so cleaning every little part.)
So please help! I don't know much "car terminology" but I will try my best to understand, perhaps I'll have my dad read yall's posts and he can figure it out. I've done all the research from google, youtube, and this website to do it myself, but alas I have failed =/ Also, the whole "adjusting" deal you have to do with carbs we don't know how to do...So I think we dug ourselves a deep hole.
Please help a vintage loving college student!
http://s400.photobucket.com/albums/p...967%20Mustang/
I bought a rebuild kit for it from Autozone and my dad helped me (I'm 21 years old, very little car experience aside from what my dad has taught me) and we managed to get it put back together with new gaskets, I cleaned the crap out of it, and all the other smaller parts like those little ***** and needle valve. Essentially, I'm 95% sure we put every part back the way it was.
Here comes my issue.
We installed it again, and the car would start, but it wouldn't stay idle. It would just sputter, then die immediately, or if I gave it enough gas it would stay idle for about a minute or less and just sputter then die on me. Neither of us are very "carb smart." My dad was hesitant at first, but we thought SURELY two of us could figure it out, but we're stuck and this is my only vehicle that I take to school and work.
I'll copy/paste a link to my photo bucket account that has pictures of the carb if yall would like to take a look at it.
http://s400.photobucket.com/albums/p...967%20Mustang/
FYI, when I cleaned it we got an oil pan (brand new, no oil in it) and we filled it with diesel gasoline and let the carb soak completely in it to get all this black crud and dirt off of it. I cleaned it small wire brush (copper maybe, I'm not sure) and I made sure it was clean as a whistle (I spent like an hour or so cleaning every little part.)
So please help! I don't know much "car terminology" but I will try my best to understand, perhaps I'll have my dad read yall's posts and he can figure it out. I've done all the research from google, youtube, and this website to do it myself, but alas I have failed =/ Also, the whole "adjusting" deal you have to do with carbs we don't know how to do...So I think we dug ourselves a deep hole.
Please help a vintage loving college student!
http://s400.photobucket.com/albums/p...967%20Mustang/
#2
I'm not a carb guy either. I would suggest getting a new Edelbrock carb about the same size as the one you have. It ran great right out of the box for me and wasn't very expensive. The best part, it's been running great for 4 years now with no leaks and no fussing with it.
It would definatly help some of these other guys on here, to know what engine size and what carb model you have now, if you want to try to rebuild it,,, good luck with that.
I had a professional rebuild my old Motorcraft carb and it crapped out again in 6 months (and the pro charged me almost as much as the new carb cost).
It would definatly help some of these other guys on here, to know what engine size and what carb model you have now, if you want to try to rebuild it,,, good luck with that.
I had a professional rebuild my old Motorcraft carb and it crapped out again in 6 months (and the pro charged me almost as much as the new carb cost).
Last edited by 1971mach1; 09-25-2012 at 04:18 PM.
#3
I'd love to buy a whole new one, but I just have a small part time job and I go to school, so money is tight for me usually. There wasn't really anything wrong with it before I messed with it, only that it leaked a little. I got the rebuild kit and it was simple to assemble, but now I don't know why it won't stay and idle.
It's a 1967 Ford Mustang. Inline 6 cylinder Engine. The carb is an Autolite 1100.
It's a 1967 Ford Mustang. Inline 6 cylinder Engine. The carb is an Autolite 1100.
#4
Carb help
Nice stang, keep you hard earned $$$ because you know the carb was good when you took it off. Could be nothing more than the idle speed screw needs to be adjusted / screwed in. Get the engine started and if needed to keep it running manually move the high speed cam so the throttle is open wider than idle. Once running, spray WD-40 around the base of the carb and the seams / gaskets of the carb to check for a vacuum leak. WD-40 will make the RPM go up and help pin point your issue. I've seen where a large diameter vacuum hose such as to the PVC valve can cause extreme idle problems. I know the last thing you'll want to do is open that carb back up to check the float level because a very high float level can cause your problem.
If your vehicle sat for a long time check that your gas is good to go, doesn't smell funky and that your filters are new.
When I got my 67 I just took the inlet line to the fuel pump off, attached a rubber hose and ran it directly out of a gas can with fresh fuel.
If your vehicle sat for a long time check that your gas is good to go, doesn't smell funky and that your filters are new.
When I got my 67 I just took the inlet line to the fuel pump off, attached a rubber hose and ran it directly out of a gas can with fresh fuel.
Last edited by Firstgothenshow; 09-26-2012 at 11:34 AM.
#6
The above advice is what I was thinking, the only thing I could add is the mixture screw. Usually the instructions have you lightly seat the mixture screw and then back it out 1-1/2 turns for the initial setting. Fine tune it when you get it to idle.
If it ran well before the rebuild, the it is a matter of rechecking and adjusting.
If it ran well before the rebuild, the it is a matter of rechecking and adjusting.
#7
It sounds to me like you could also have a problem with the vacuum advance. PLEASE take some photos of the carb as it is attached to you car now. This is one of the most simplest carbs so the problem/solution is usually very easy to fix.
#8
I did post pictures of the carb as well as the car itself. It's in both of those links. However, did you mean take pictures of it taken apart? And thank you guys so much for all the help, I'll try these out and get back with you all.
#9
#10
Also, when we were taking it a part, two small metal ***** (ball checks according to my manual) fell out, but I don't know exactly where they went. I looked up different diagrams and some say differently. Two fell out of mine, but some diagrams show 1 and others 2.