Roller cam and aluminum heads for 289? - MustangForums.com


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Old 05-12-2013, 10:01 AM   #1
Diputado
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Question Roller cam and aluminum heads for 289?

Have a moderately-built '65 289 running factory iron heads and a .508 lift/292 duration hydraulic cam, plus all the other "standard goodies". Engine was built about 5-6 years ago. Been thinking about one day in the future, maybe changing over to a set of Trickflow aluminum heads and a hydraulic roller cam. I saw that Summit sells one (hydraulic roller) by Comp Cams called a "Thumpr" cam, but I really don't know much about either Comp Cams or this so-called "Thumpr" cam they advertise (have previously only used Crane cams). Any advice and opinions on my proposed parts swap...AND on that particular cam?
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:32 AM   #2
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Trick Flow heads are a great choice. I have them on my 331 and love them.

Comp Cams is a great company...but I do not like their Thumper grinds. They're designed for people that care more about sound than performance. They increase valve overlap to cause a lopey sounding idle, which also comes at the cost of low-rpm throttle response. They offer many superior cam grinds in their standard cam listings.

A roller cam conversion isn't impossible by any means, but I'd look into the cost aspect before you decide to go that route. For me, it was cost-prohibitive. Converting an older non-roller block requires drilling holes in the lifter valley to mount the lifter 'spider' retainers, as well as a special small base-circle conversion cam to keep the lifters from popping up out of the lifter bores. Doable, but expensive.

I have a Magnum 280 cam and Rhoads lifters in my 331 and I'm happy with the setup. Valvetrain clatter is noticeable, but it's driveable from 1500-3k rpm, and after I hit the 3k mark it pulls hard. It fits my style of driving, but may be a bit much for some people. There are other, more driver-friendly cams out there for a daily driver.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:47 PM   #3
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I went with trickflow twisted wedge heads with 170cc intake runners a failry mild comp roller cam, comp retro fit link bar roller lifters and comp magnum roller rockers and edelbrock air gap intake and finally a holley 670 street avenger.

It runs great and makes about 290 hp.

I had an issue with the lifters breaking apart on the inside and comp stood behind their product a 100% we hope its because the preload was excessive (1) turn past zero as described in a misprint in their manual. I set preload to 5/8 turn with this new set and hopefully it keeps running great.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:49 AM   #4
69mach1377
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About $600 to convert to a comp cams roller and howards lifters, no drilling required. You might need new springs and rockers though, so $1000 total?
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:36 AM   #5
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Ok...some slightly divergent opinions here.
Good point about that Thumper cam...kind of what I suspected. I agree...having the "lope" is nice...but actually having the "go" is better! Actually...my current cam (.508/292) has plenty of that "lopey" sound!
Hey 69Mach....why did you go with Howard lifters, instead of the ones from your cam manufacturer? Just curious..
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:41 PM   #6
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I didn't, but they were on my short list due to cost.
I'm sticking with this for now; CompCams dual energy (flat tappet hydraulic) cam #35-418-3 and rhoads lifters
o Lift = .513/.548 w/1.72 ratio, duration @ .050 = 219/233, 110* lobe separation
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:22 PM   #7
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Figure out what your goal for the car is first....cruiser, auto cross, open tracking, drag, street machine etc etc.

Then figure out your budget to get there (this is usually the "come to Jesus" moment).

Then you'll have an idea of what to do.

That said, roller blocks can still be had, custom cam grinds are certainly an option for not much more than ots grinds, and can be more tailored to what you want. I prefer AFR heads myself, but TFS heads are just as good.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:18 AM   #8
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Well, mine is strictly a "street rod"...no drags, long distance highway runs,etc. Just rolling it out on nice weekends for a few hours tooling around locally....running through the gears, turning heads,etc. In reality, until the current engine needs an overhaul, I don't expect to make any mjaor changes. Was just "thinking ahead" for when that time comes. I bought the car about 6 months ago from someone who, in turn, bought it from the guy who built the engine, who in turn says he built it about 6 years ago, and drove it mainly on Sundays (so he said), and then sold it to PO about 2 years ago. I have no idea how many miles have been put on it since it was built. But...when I changed the intake and valve covers on it after buying it...heads, lifter valley, and rocker arms were all clean as a pin! The only "little detail" that has nagged me was the oil filter...when I changed it right after buying the car, I noticed blue engine paint overspray on it from when the engine was painted...now SURELY the oil filter had been changed at some time after the engine was built!! Maybe not.....!!
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:33 PM   #9
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oh he had a filter on a nother engine he was building and just put it on that one when it came time to change the oil..or the guy you bought it from detailed it to clean it up even more before you bought it etc(my guess is detailing)
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1377 View Post
I didn't, but they were on my short list due to cost.
I'm sticking with this for now; CompCams dual energy (flat tappet hydraulic) cam #35-418-3 and rhoads lifters
o Lift = .513/.548 w/1.72 ratio, duration @ .050 = 219/233, 110* lobe separation
I'm refering to the link bar type of lifters here...howards cost less than CC
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