120mm

So, since I bought this car (1967 I-6 200 Convertible) in 1976, it's been the slowest, doggiest thing in the universe. I didn't care, though, since I had plenty of performance cars, and wanted something nice that would help me get laid.

Since I've started dinking with it recently, myself and my mechanic have been frustrated with lack of performance.

Also, over it's time with us, I've replaced the exhaust manifold 4 times, and it burned out again just recently. It sucks, because I've only put 30,000 miles on it.

So, I've recently been researching this engine over at Ford Six.com and at their supporting business. I saw what a smoking pile of crap the "Load-O-Matic" Distributor was, and since we'd dinked around with the carb for years, decided to check some things.

Took a timing light to it, and when I pushed the accelerator pedal down, no advance. Then, we advanced the distributor approx. 20 degrees and I went for a little test drive.

HOLEEEEE CRAP! I was scorching tire like it was no tomorrow! This thing screams, comparatively speaking.

So, I ordered the Duraspark II Ignition Kit from the good folks at Classic Inlines, and am anxiously awaiting the big brown truck and it's package of Joy. I can't wait to start turning up the performance on this little car. I'll run it with the stock carb and manifold for awhile, but I suddenly am seeing some potential in this little sixxer.

67mustang302

If you want performance just convert it to a 302/351 engine.....of course that needs all the other supporting crap.

But yes, ignition timing is the single biggest factor in making power in domestic pushrod engines...wrong timing = **** power.

120mm

The problem is, if you are running an 200 ci I-6 with a Load-O-Matic distributor setup, chances are your timing isn't advancing correctly.

I was "this far" from converting to a V-something, but now I think I am going to play with this for awhile and see what kind of performance I can get. I really, really like the light front end on this car, and if I can even get decent power, I may just stay a sixxer.

67mustang302

For the cost of getting that 6 to perform to a reasonable standard, you could convert to a V8 and come out ahead on cash.

There just isn't that much of a market for those kinds of parts, and the engines were never intended to be performance engines. Some people do it for the sake of doing it, but it's not what would be considered a practical solution to trying to attain performance.

The only reason to do something more unique like that, is because it's unique. So you have to decide what's more important to you...being unique by running the 6er, or reaching a certain level of performance cost effectively.

fastbackford351

Those little 6's LOVE advance and a lot of it. Wait until you get your Duraspark setup in there and then see where you're at.

Back when I had my 302 in it I was always doing a dick dance with my points ignition then I went with a Duraspark II setup and the difference was like going from the stone wheel to the radial tire. You'll like it.

Yeah there are hotter setups out there but I went with the Duraspark because, well, honestly at the time it was easily affordable (read the boneyards were full of them) and I knew the Duraspark II setup would be dead nuts reliable.

Now that I could buy one of the more advanced setups I'm sticking with the Duraspark in my 351 because it ain't broke and it lights off and purrs like a kitten every time I turn the key, (recent death of a 20 year old coil in front of God and everybody notwithstanding).

69mach1377

I would guess that a performance intake and exhaust might be worth some ponies also.

JAGGUY

The 200 is a very respectable performer when it's running right. If the spark-0-matic distributor doesn't match the correct carb they don't run right at all.

So, if you have the SOM carb and you change dizzys the vacuum port on the carb won't work for your dizzy. (does that make any sense?)

Anyway, Classic Inlines tech files explains it well. Might want to wander over there and peruse...

I really enjoy my 66 Sprint 200, it aint a dog at all and have no desire put a V8 into it.

120mm

The thing is, it all depends on what your definition of "performance" is. V8 cars weigh 200 pounds more than I-6 cars. And most of that weight is over the front axle or forward of it. To the American mindset, the only "performance" is drag racing, and that isn't what I'm looking for.

I'm looking for a little noise, some ability to light up the back tires, and the ability to turn corners reasonably fast. And I love the way the I-6 handles with the upgraded front suspension, manual R&P and front discs.

I went ahead and got a new aftermarket performance coil and resistor, anticipating this very thing.

Performance intake is where the big money is, so that will be last resort. Maybe something fabbed, but the log intake is just a no-go.

I've read the tech files and came away with an opposite impression. The stock carb will work with the Duraspark II, but a new carb won't work with the Load-O-Matic. For sure, the stock carb works just fine completely disconnected, so I don't know why it shouldn't work with the new dizzy.

JAGGUY

Read through this again...
http://classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp

The lodo carb doesn't provide vacuum properly for a standard type dizzy.
It can be modded to work by plugging internal passages

Edit, unless you are using a fully centrifugal dizzy....

While you can use a Duraspark or DUI distributor with a stock Autolite 1100 carb, both of these distributors utilize a mechanical advance mechanism that was designed to operate with ported or manifold vacuum. As such they will not operate properly using the vacuum port on the stock Autolite 1100 carburetor. To correct this you need to plug the port on the carb, so you don't have a vacuum leak, and run the vacuum line from the Duraspark or DUI distributor to a manifold vacuum source. This can be accomplished using an existing vacuum source on the intake manifold, or the bottom of the carb adaptor. Or you can create a new source by drilling a hole in the intake manifold and installing a vacuum barb. However, you'd need to remove the cylinder head before drilling, to make sure the manifold is free of any debris that could work down into the cylinders and severely damage the motor.

So...what happens if you do try to use the vacuum port on the Autolite 1100 carb? At idle, the "Spark Control Valve" is open, sending manifold vacuum to the distributor. As such, the engine will idle just fine. However the "Spark Control Valve" will not provide the proper vacuum signal under load and/or speed. All engines need more advance when cruising, and less to none at wide open throttle. However since you are now using the carb (venturi vacuum advance) and the distributor (mechanical advance) to compensate for speed, the ignition system will receive to much advance at cruise and wide open throttle. As a result, the engine may chug and jerk from the over-advanced condition at cruise.

120mm

That's a no-brainer, then. Plug the carb vacuum and run it off the manifold. Like it should've been in the first place.

I can't wait to see what it runs like once it's set up right.