barnett468

ok, if your pistons are stock cheapo cast pistons, your static compression is around 8.832 but acts like around 8.6 due to elevation. that big cam makes it seem like around 8.2. not good when you need around 10.6 static for that cam and your elevation..




IF you had the right compression AND head flow, you would have around 50 more hp than you do now. yup that's 50.

the headers made your car faster, not the cam. the cam LOWERED your compression and RAISED your overall rpm range. this means that it massively REDUCED low end hp.

if you do what i said, AND install 3.40 gears also, it will feel like you gained 100 hp guaranteed or your money back.

MCM1010

sounds good, i'm still confused on my cam.
my cam is
Basic Operating RPM Range:Idle-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:204
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:214
Duration at 050 inch Lift:204 int./214 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:270
Advertised Exhaust Duration:280
Advertised Duration:270 int./280 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.448 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.472 in.


the comp xe262h cam is
Basic Operating RPM Range:1,300-5,600
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:218
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:224
Duration at 050 inch Lift:218 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:262
Advertised Exhaust Duration:270
Advertised Duration:262 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.493 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.500 in.

is mine not a milder cam?

Starfury

I really don't like Edelbrock cam grinds. They have very few to pick from, and it seems to me that they only make them (or contract them out, which is more likely) to satisfy demand for an Edelbrock-branded cam. The end result: I wouldn't listen to Edelbrock's advice on what cam to choose.

Those heads are crap. I know, I had them. Factory C code heads have ridiculously small exhaust ports, tiny shrouded valves, and press-in rocker studs. Headers and dual exhaust only helps if you can get the exhaust gases out the exhaust ports. All of your cam, intake, and exhaust mods are pretty much negated with factory heads.

Listen to Barnett. He really is trying to help you. Unfortunately, it seems that you've done exactly what many of us caution against when building a motor: you picked parts that do not match up together at all. He's trying to make suggestions that could help you patch the problem. But honestly, I'd consider saving your money and putting it towards tearing the motor apart, dropping in some flat-top pistons, and getting a good set of heads. You'll still need gears to get it moving, but at least your engine would be happier.

MCM1010

what besides the cam doesnt match up?

barnett468

hello;

ok the page i got your cam spec from is incorrect, sorry about that. your specs are correct, however it is still not ideal for your set up especially if you were to port the heads but it will work. i would say that if you are happy with the way it runs now then just keep it and do the other mods as suggested if you want it will only run better if you do. the good thing is that you can run 87 in it right now no prob and save some money.

it still has long adv dur which is longer than the xe 262, therefore it is still costing you some compression.

as Starfury said, i too would redo the eng but after you spent 5k its not an appealing thought.

MCM1010

cool, what heads do you recommend?

MCM1010

i know it will be more than a grand but i think that it might be money well spent get value added out of the other mods.

barnett468

well,

since you don';t care about spinning the tires there is not a lot of point in doing that. it will run the same with flat top 5.5 cc pistons and 54 cc heads as it will with 10.5 cc dish pistons and 42 cc heads. one benefit you get from redoing it is being able to 0 deck the block which is a benefit on any engine but not completely necessary on yours. you can "square" it too it you want to go whole hog.

if you do want to roast the tires and have a mildly lumpy idle etc., then redo it and buy a BIGGER cam. your 3.40 gears will work with a slightly bigger cam but a higher stall conv like a 2200 will help it get off the line better.

if you build your engine for your elevation then it might ping/detonate slightly when you get near sea level. you can use less compression or add an alcohol/water injection unit and just use it at lower altitudes if needed.

these cars love the xe series comp cams. i might use an xe 268. a 274 is way too big a 256 is way too small, a 262 is kinda similar to what you have but not exactly. the xe series have a SLIGHTLY narrower power band but more power in that power ban. it "hits" harder like a 2 stroke motorcycle. ok confused now?

there are other good cams too but a starfury said, an eddy cam is not the best choice, at least for a "performance" cam.

the big bang is in aluminum heads but the good ones like AFR's, maybe 185 runner renegade series are $1800.00. eddy street series heads are $400.00 cheaper and will work for a mild build.

also you can get a used reground stock orig 302 crank CHEAP or put a 331 - 347 stroker kit in it. the 302 will add torque.

hey...your gears are gettin kinda expensive, lol.
.

MCM1010

hey man i really appreciate all your help, glad i decided to stop being stubborn.

barnett468

lol...theres a lot moe smaller details to a good build. just think about what we posted and be realistic as to how much power you want cuz if you want a lot you will get just what you asked for lol. my guess is that you will be happy with a litle more to a moderate amount more. this can be done without rebuilding your eng if you prefer....also let us know if you want the power at the lower end of the rpm range or the higher end. . . also if youre on a bit of a budget we canb suggest lower cost parts. . . the gear change will make a huge huge change. . you can even go to 350 or 373 if you put an overdrivve trans. . it will be a screamer off the line then