Vacuum Help for 66 289/302
#1
Vacuum Help for 66 289/302
I have a 66 FB with a 302 in it. I'm having a bit of a heating problem and I am questioning my vaccum setup. I have an Edelbrock 1406 carb, 600cfm with auto choke. On the drivers side port it is constant vaccum, passenger side is ported vaccum. I have the constant port plugged, a line from the ported vaccum to the distributor. The only other vaccum line is from the back of the intake manifold to the C4 auto transmission.
I searched this forum for anything related and nothing comes back, and I've done some 'net searching and the more I look, the more confused I am getting. Does anyone know anything about a vacuum temperature switch that appears to be a common point for all vaccum? I see it on some diagrams but have looked (and asked) 3 different Mustang parts outlets and no one even lists this thing as a part. I read an article that this things job was to regulate vaccum to keep a motor from becoming hot.... which is why I want to know more about it.
any ideas?
I searched this forum for anything related and nothing comes back, and I've done some 'net searching and the more I look, the more confused I am getting. Does anyone know anything about a vacuum temperature switch that appears to be a common point for all vaccum? I see it on some diagrams but have looked (and asked) 3 different Mustang parts outlets and no one even lists this thing as a part. I read an article that this things job was to regulate vaccum to keep a motor from becoming hot.... which is why I want to know more about it.
any ideas?
#2
is this what you're referring to? http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/...hmn_tips1.html My first question, are you running a late or early model 302? My second question, why are you running emissions equip on a 66? You should be able to remove most if not all of that stuff (at least in CA) On the link, click on Image 2.
#3
I was under the impression that the ported vacuum switch started in 1968 on CA cars, but I could be wrong.
In any case, a temperature regulated vacuum switch screws into the thermostat housing. If the temp picks up, the switch opens and runs full vacuum to the vacuum advance to increase idle speed, thereby increasing fan speed and aiding in cooling power at idle.
In reality, you shouldn't need one if your cooling system is up to snuff. Your vacuum is routed perfectly fine as is.
What kind of problem are you having? When does it get hot? What kind of fan and radiator do you have? What's your timing set at? What else can you tell us about your motor?
In any case, a temperature regulated vacuum switch screws into the thermostat housing. If the temp picks up, the switch opens and runs full vacuum to the vacuum advance to increase idle speed, thereby increasing fan speed and aiding in cooling power at idle.
In reality, you shouldn't need one if your cooling system is up to snuff. Your vacuum is routed perfectly fine as is.
What kind of problem are you having? When does it get hot? What kind of fan and radiator do you have? What's your timing set at? What else can you tell us about your motor?
#4
No on the emissions, it is an early 302. And yes, that picture on the far left is exactly what I am looking for. Without emissions stuff, do I need it? Are the 2 lines that I have enough?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#5
Starfury, I had the car outside of Denver, so I had it advanced for 7000+ feet (12 degrees sounds right, can't remember). I am now in Florida so I changed the needles/seats per Edelbrock for being at sea level. I have a slightly oversized capacity radiator, and the fan is stock. One of my thoughts were to get an electric fan. Oh, btw, I put a shroud on it also to help.
What happens is that as I drive the car, the heat just seems to build and build until it gets to a point I either shut it down or have already made a break back to the garage. My timing isn't really set at this point, but will set it to whatever the sea level spec is, I'm thinking it is 6 degrees? I was adjusting it last time I had her running to see what it would run like at different timings. Suggestions?
What happens is that as I drive the car, the heat just seems to build and build until it gets to a point I either shut it down or have already made a break back to the garage. My timing isn't really set at this point, but will set it to whatever the sea level spec is, I'm thinking it is 6 degrees? I was adjusting it last time I had her running to see what it would run like at different timings. Suggestions?
#7
Hard to say what the advance spec should be for your particular motor unless we know more about the cam. Rough guess might be 6-8*, but it's kind of a stab in the dark. Too much and you get detonation, which creates lots of heat. Too little and you start the burn to late, which also can create excess heat. Running lean can also cause excess heat buildup.
By "driving," do you mean at freeway speeds, or are we talking stop-and-go traffic? Does it overheat at idle, or only while driving? And how do you know it's actually overheating? Do you have a mechanical temp gauge or an infrared thermometer? You can't rely on the factory gauge. "HOT" isn't really a temperature.
By "driving," do you mean at freeway speeds, or are we talking stop-and-go traffic? Does it overheat at idle, or only while driving? And how do you know it's actually overheating? Do you have a mechanical temp gauge or an infrared thermometer? You can't rely on the factory gauge. "HOT" isn't really a temperature.