Gun Jam

too often we over look the most basic requirements and end up playing this game. Water in the reservoir dont count in my book. I would like to know how much it takes to get above the cores. With that one test we could possibly end this discussion right now.

-Gun

Nurdyguy

I'll see if I have time this evening (depends on what the wife has planned...)

Barnette, I checked the res before going back to the shop but didn't actually check inside the rad itself. The res was pretty much where it is now, just slightly below the "Cold" line.

barnett468

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ok, well thats not exactly what i asked you to do so it doesn't give us any useful info.

Nurdyguy

I just added half a gallon and it got me to just above the core. It is still gurgling a little but hasn't gone down significantly in 10 minutes.

barnett468

run it for around 5 minutes then check it again after it cools or after you pull the lever on the cap.

what is the number on the top of your cap . . it needs to be at least 12.

you "can" simply get that radiator cleaned out for around $100.00 then install a shroud and it will improve but there cars ran hot in hot weather when they were new so a bigger rad is better/safer.
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Gun Jam

A half gallon is almost of concern but the question is will it take more after a 5 min run....if it was full a week ago and you are now able to add 3/4 or more gallon that maybe an issue.

Run it around the block (5 min or so drive) let it cool a bit and see if the water is still right at the top of the core. If not how much more did it take in?

Nurdyguy

After letting it set for a while I was able to add another quart to get it to the 1/2 - 1 inch above the core. I'll run it tomorrow morning for about 5 minutes to see how it does (didn't have a chance tonight).

Gun Jam

After the test drive ideally the water level should just be above the core say no more than 1/2" it should maintain this level for a very long period of time. Mark the water height in the overflow tank as well.

after reading all of this based on the current info ive made my possible list of issues
1) Im with boogie...I think its just an old radiator should be replaced
Ive daily driven my mustang for the last 15 years with a northen 2 core Al radiator in 110f central ca Bull**** summers. Its got about 100,000 miles on it and dominates quite well. http://www.northernfactory.com/AUTOM...D/MUSTANG/1965
Unless they are doing things different now I highly recommend them! You should just buy it anyways if you really plan to drive your car much...the one you've got now will probably start leaking soon enough even if its not plugged up.

2) if water keeps magically disappearing(its not on the floor, its not in the overflow tank, its not leaking out from the engine, and its not in the rad...welll its probably finding its way past a blown head gasket. But we've done no investigation into this. Do you see white smoke at start up?
Is the oil on the dipstick nice and clean? Do you notice any oil in the coolant? They make test stuff to check for hydrocarbons in the coolant...usually a pretty good way to find out. A compression test would show a bad gasket as well. But Im still betting on option 1 unless we come across some new info.

let us know what you find out about water levels over time and after a short trip.

-Gun

Boogie's_AutoRama

Hey Jam, been flying lately?

Nurd, you don't need a $400 radaitor.
eBay is loaded with radiators for under $200 bucks that will work fine for years and years in a daily driver like yours. Your not making enough hp to warrant a high performance radiator.

Nurdyguy

I just took a 5-10 minute drive and everything stayed cool (just past the C, as I marked in the photo previously). I haven't checked the rad yet, waiting for it to cool down a bit, but I doubt it changed. Could i have lost 3 quarts of coolant in the boil over? And if so, why was there still water in the res?