Gun Jam

Hello

Ive been using sort of cheep water pumps that you can pick up at like O'Really? autoparts. They do okay for the price but fail often enough. The one ive got now is fixing to take a pretty serious dump here soon. its starting to **** water out of the drain hole thing at high rpm.

Ive got a 289 block standard belt configuration with electric fan.

I would like to spend money on a quality unit in aluminum. The iron looks like hell I try to paint them but it flakes off over time then rust.

Is there a particular Al unit that will fit well for my application and be good for many miles? It seems to me that I should avoid any high flow (high volume) pumps. Im of the opinion that the last thing I need is more pressure trying to blow out gaskets and hoses and excess load on engine.

So aluminum, standard rotation, standard volume, high quality setup

any suggestions?

I hear that al water pumps require different bolt sizes?
What about back plates...My setup uses a back plate now... I should stick with a back plate right?

Thanks

-Gun

barnett468

.

what brand is your pump?

no non high perf water pumps that i know of.

increasding water flow will not increadse presure per se.

ro eliminate the back plate you need to change timing covers to a 65 type which had an aluminum pump.

if you buy a high perf pump, i would buy a flow kooler . . made in camarrillo calif...or so they claim.

typical stock replacement ones are bosch and airtex . . rock auto has them cheap.

Gun Jam

Its a non brand. I think I got it from O really's im sure it got some kind of brand name but its not on the pump that I can see.

This one would fit great, has back plate...but its high volume.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...view/year/1966

My concern with high volume is if they claim "30% more volume" how is that not going to boost pressures? I read it as " wasting Hp to jam 30% more water into the bypass hose to make sure your engine never reaches operating temp"

@50f its quite difficult to maintain 190f at 70mph flat and level. The T stat is now 195 and usually opens around 197....whats that extra flow going to do?

Thanks
-Gun

barnett468

.
that is ok but its pricey . . the one below is less. it increases predsure in some parts of the engine mainly where the ports are smaller but it does not increase the water air pressure.

it will also eat a few more hp but not a lot.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/br...view/make/ford

i would just buy one of the two i mentioned if you dont want a high flow pump.
.

Boogie's_AutoRama

Hey Gun, are you just wanting to get rid of the iron pump because the paint is flaking? or because they are failing?

Did you buy a new w/pump or rebuilt?

The w/pump on my '66 has well over 100k miles on it without a hitch.
I always go with new over rebuilt.


B

Gun Jam

No its starting to fail. Water is being forced out of the weep hole...Its got maybe another 1000 miles of service life a best probably much less.

What brand is your WP Boogie?


The flowkooler looks really well built I would buy that straight away but It appears its a non back plate model (for 65s) I just bought a good new timing chain cover to replaced the pitted old one so I would like to stay with a setup that matches what ive got now fitment wise.

Thanks!

Starfury

Odd that you're having repeated failures from these pumps. Was it a new pump, or a reman? The remans are A1 cardone and are pretty shoddy. Seals fail all the time, bearings fail. I hate the damn things and try very hard not to sell them. The new ones are ASC (Airtex) and are pretty good quality. Having sold multiple brands, I'd say they're better than GMB (who make the Gates pumps that Napa sells), and far better than the new Cardone units.

If you really want an aluminum pump, I've had good luck with my Weiand aluminum unit. It was something like $70 and is still working great after 10 years. I went with aluminum for pure weight savings. Between my aluminum water pump, intake, and heads, I've probably shaved a good 100+lbs off the engine.

Gun Jam

I even try to not let belt tension become excessive. I think its probably a cheep reman.

Do you remember if you got the standard or high volume one?

Did it require any special bolt lengths?

67mustang302

If you're going to spend $200 on a water pump, might as well spend a bit more and get an electric from Meziere. Their electric pumps last for ****in ever it seems like.

Meziere also makes mechanical pumps, but they're $400. That said, your car will probably rust away 100 years from now and the water pump will still be working.

The Flow Kooler is pretty good, I've used a few of those and they last quite a while. I've never had one fail by leaking at the seal or not cooling, usually the bearing gives out before that and the shaft gets sloppy (but the pump still works like it's new). The seals in them are pretty indestructible.

Boogie's_AutoRama

Dunno, that was so many years ago I don't even remember which auto parts store I got it at.
Just know it was a new one, not a re-man.