Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

289 4v wont idle more than a couple minutes

Old 05-01-2017, 09:34 PM
  #31  
zeddy
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It's hard to explain. Fuel comes out in a stream but only after you have pulled it about 25%of the travel of the linkage. Nothing near as strong as when it's running.
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:27 PM
  #32  
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Humm it could be the "cam" profile or whatever activates that accelerator pump system...maybe check it for slop
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Old 05-02-2017, 04:38 AM
  #33  
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Yeah, definitely not recommended to set timing by ear and feel without some experience. Go with the manufacturers recommendation, but if the engine was built by a reputable builder, and it was set by them, and it ran good at one point after they built it I agree your on the right track with the carb.
If an engine backfires through the carb it often will damage the accelerator pump. They are easy to change, no need to go to the carb guy for this. I think you can still buy just the accelerator pump by itself.
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:30 PM
  #34  
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It got worse, I had a super fine crack in one of the floats that took three weeks to fill up to the point were it wouldn't close the needle.
Seems great now.
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Old 05-11-2017, 12:00 AM
  #35  
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okay but if it took weeks to fill up wouldn't it take weeks to drain out?
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Old 05-11-2017, 12:06 AM
  #36  
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i pulled the float, used a hair dryer to heat it and find the crack.When I heated it the float and gas was under pressure and it leaked out. I heated it to drain it then soldered it back up. Its been good. I will let you know in a few weeks if it fills back up but I think I have it.
The carb builder says he ultra sonic cleans the float then holds them under water and squeezes them and checks for bubbles. When I did that I got none but there is definitely a leak as the filed up. One in a million I guess.

If I hadn't heated the float I don't know if it would have ever leaked out!

Last edited by zeddy; 05-11-2017 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 05-11-2017, 12:25 PM
  #37  
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no one tried shaking it?

Im not trying to sound like a dick im just trying to figure out how a mechanic can clean a carb and not notice a sunk float or even a 1/4 full float.
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Old 05-11-2017, 12:42 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Gun Jam
no one tried shaking it?

Im not trying to sound like a dick im just trying to figure out how a mechanic can clean a carb and not notice a sunk float or even a 1/4 full float.
The carb guy used an ultrasonic then checked them. After he adjusted the geometry of the floats as he noticed when comparing them with another carb that they were different. I'm assuming that's when the crack occurred. From there I put them back on and it took a few weeks to fill up and become problematic. I also had some ign problems. I still think the bushings in my stock distributor were bad and affecting the points as it seemed to burn up points like crazy. Even after replacing, ign switch, pigtail, ballast resister, condenser and points. The plugs, wires, points cap and rotor were already new from the motor build. As was the coil but I even tried swapping out that too.
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Old 05-11-2017, 06:22 PM
  #39  
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Oh that make more sense!

Well hopefully it stays fixed...
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Old 05-11-2017, 06:32 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Gun Jam
Oh that make more sense!

Well hopefully it stays fixed...
It will for sure, I have a brand new float in the glove box.
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