drewsky

Hmmm, yah I think I am going to have the shop that installed the engine set this up then lol. technically they should have caught this for me in the first place, this is the first time I have not done any work on any of my cars before. I can only imagine "if" the engine got trashed what they could possibly be liable for.

Gun Jam

Yeah make them do it...You might want to find the spec card for gear depth...msd has it...I would think its identical for all 289 blocks.

drewsky

so there is a correct depth this needs to go on...? wouldn't the original pin just go into the factory hole there?

Gun Jam

There is no guarantee that the hole drilled in the new gear is the proper depth. Its literally like a margin of error of two sheets of paper (.010") too short or too long and its going to trash gears.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/9...stallation.jpg

http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lem...gear2.jpg.html

drewsky

just got it back to the shop yesterday with the new gear I gave them , informed the owner on everything and that he may need to verify proper depth etc. He implied he is well aware of this and they have done 1000 before. so I guess well see what happens, it will be their responsibility from this point

Gun Jam

nice...If he gets it right the first time maybe I'll have him do any others I might need in the future

drewsky

May be too early to tell. But so far so good in the gear swap. Got it back Friday and drove it all weekend, put about a half tank of gas though it. With the first oil change and after the weekend no sings of metal in oil or change in timing at all. Again way too early to tell but so far so good. I talked to him about the super specific measurements and he says he lings them up with the original hole and presses them in to factory, not sure if he's full of crap and just saying it or if he actually knows what's going on to be honest. Either way so far so good.

Also changed the motor and trans runner mounts, had a bad vibration on the freeway and at certain speeds. Seems to have help a lot but still not close too 100% there. Will have to start another thread on this one soon

Gun Jam

You could always pull the dizzy out and look at the wear patterns on the gear teeth.

drewsky

yes, I will be doing this in a few weeks. after I get a few more weekends of driving on it.

MonsterBilly

I have been through this same situation. The current Steel gear you arenrunningnisbthe correct gear. You have a roller cam.... if you had a flat tapped cam, it is a softer material and made to mate to the lifters.
With a roller cam, the steel is hardened so it will eat right through the softer cast gear which is used for a flat tapper cam.
You have the correct gear now....

Also, other than rings seating, you have little to no "break in" with a roller motor. The main break in you refer to is for the cam and lifters to seat together on a flat tapped set up. Roller motors only need for the rings to seat. Which is done very quickly.

90 percent of cam failures are do to a lack not proper assembly lube and also not turning the oil pump and pre lubing the system before firing it. Always spin the oil pump with either a valve cover off or at least until you see oil pressure on the gauge prior to putting in the dizzy and firing.

So basically, your gear and engine are fine, change your oil and start flogging the **** out of that thing.