New battery = huge sparks flying !!
07-22-2017, 05:19 PM
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Arizona
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Sooo.... Got the syliniod in last night. Bolted it up and decided to try out the new Wally World battery that was previously sparking up. Hooked up the positive terminal and stepped back while I tried to tab the ground on the negative terminal. And..... Nothing! Good to go! Tightened them down and car runs perfect. Think the new battery had way more power than the half dead one found in the shed. It's still interesting to me honestly but whatever.
07-24-2017, 11:23 PM
#24
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THIS ISNT OVER YET
thought we we're good to go. I took it for a spin to get gas tonight. Ran great. After it was hot it fired right up at the gas station. Got back home and in the driveway I shut it off and it stayed running. Ugh. Pull the negative terminal and the motor shut off about 8-10 seconds later. What could this be now?? I'm afraid to put the cable back on the terminal all over again because I think the same exact thing will happen.
thought we we're good to go. I took it for a spin to get gas tonight. Ran great. After it was hot it fired right up at the gas station. Got back home and in the driveway I shut it off and it stayed running. Ugh. Pull the negative terminal and the motor shut off about 8-10 seconds later. What could this be now?? I'm afraid to put the cable back on the terminal all over again because I think the same exact thing will happen.
07-24-2017, 11:55 PM
#25
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Location: Hills of California
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well run the ohm meter across it like I showed you with the battery disconnected.
Whats it read?
Ive read of people crying about these solenoids being crap...They arent built like they used to be or the starting system is drawing too many amps and welding the contact plates together in the solenoid.
Ohm meter is the first step.
Whats it read?
Ive read of people crying about these solenoids being crap...They arent built like they used to be or the starting system is drawing too many amps and welding the contact plates together in the solenoid.
Ohm meter is the first step.
07-25-2017, 01:10 AM
#26
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Gettin the same thing on 200 it's bouncing around but averaging out to 36-38 same as the last one. I ordered the concours replacement thinking it A ( looks better) and B works better as well. Hope it's not the ignition switch after all this! Think I'm going to ship this one back and in the mean time pick up an ol orielys replacement.
07-25-2017, 09:36 AM
#27
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
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Concours replacements aren't generally around for the quality, they're for show accuracy.
The O'Reilly part should be a BWD unit (unless it's a Master Pro), which is a decent Standard Motor Parts product.
The O'Reilly part should be a BWD unit (unless it's a Master Pro), which is a decent Standard Motor Parts product.
07-26-2017, 12:01 AM
#28
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Join Date: Oct 2004
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Alright. So went to orileys and picked up a syliniod tonight. Took the concours one off and strapped on the new one. Hooked it up and put my meter on it to be safe. Put it to 200 and it was reading 1.8 ish. ( the concours one was reading 36-38) strapped on the positive terminal and backed up to tap the neg and sparks....
Im finding it hard to believe I've struck out on three of these in a row. However not impossible I guess. What's a good way to test the ignition in the dash? Can you replace the inside cylender only ? I will need to get it re keyed if this is the issue, I really love my original keys!
Im finding it hard to believe I've struck out on three of these in a row. However not impossible I guess. What's a good way to test the ignition in the dash? Can you replace the inside cylender only ? I will need to get it re keyed if this is the issue, I really love my original keys!
07-26-2017, 12:14 AM
#29
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so right out of the box the solenoid read 1.8 ohms?
You took the ohm reading after you wired it up or before?
Either way im quite certain that an air gap must be present between the two heavy leads as indicated by the arrows in the previous photo.
I dont think you are doing anything wrong because you said it was 1.8 and you got sparks...That outcome agrees with the reading.
I want you to give that solenoid a few good hits with a rubber or similar type mallet and see if that frees up the contacts...take a before and after reading.. If the contacts free you should see very high resistance (it should read the same as air) If hitting it changes the resistance to very high you can be certain its a solenoid issue. (although I cant think of anything else unless its being pulled closed by a bad ignition switch. You can pull the two small wires off the front (one to coil and one to key) this would isolate the ignition switch from the solenoid
You took the ohm reading after you wired it up or before?
Either way im quite certain that an air gap must be present between the two heavy leads as indicated by the arrows in the previous photo.
I dont think you are doing anything wrong because you said it was 1.8 and you got sparks...That outcome agrees with the reading.
I want you to give that solenoid a few good hits with a rubber or similar type mallet and see if that frees up the contacts...take a before and after reading.. If the contacts free you should see very high resistance (it should read the same as air) If hitting it changes the resistance to very high you can be certain its a solenoid issue. (although I cant think of anything else unless its being pulled closed by a bad ignition switch. You can pull the two small wires off the front (one to coil and one to key) this would isolate the ignition switch from the solenoid
