Key wont energize starter
#1
Key wont energize starter
So Ive checked all the easy stuff and no dice
battery is good
Connections are good
Starter is good
Solenoids are good
This is a dual solenoid system one on the fender apron and one on the starter. They are both good
Wire 32 red/blue runs from the key to the S terminal on the fender solenoid when the key is rolled to start I assume 12v should pass through wire 32 (as seen below) and set everything in motion.
I pulled the firewall connector apart which houses wire 32 (as seen below) If I take the male plug (engine side) of the firewall connector after separating it and stick a wire into wire 32 prong and touch it to the + post on the battery I get starter rotation. (so that checks everything up to the firewall plug)
If it put my + V meter probe into the female side (firewall side) of the wire 32 socket and the - probe to ground and hit the key to start I get no voltage
It worked fine last time I used it and since forever. I did install a new master cylinder for the brakes but thats only 2 bolts but it is near the firewall connector but Im guessing coincidence.
In the car everything acts the same I get power to all the little ****s and lights and everything when I roll to start the ****s go out like they always did (radio, dash lights ect) I get a single click from something but no starter.
any ideas?
Thanks
-Gun
battery is good
Connections are good
Starter is good
Solenoids are good
This is a dual solenoid system one on the fender apron and one on the starter. They are both good
Wire 32 red/blue runs from the key to the S terminal on the fender solenoid when the key is rolled to start I assume 12v should pass through wire 32 (as seen below) and set everything in motion.
I pulled the firewall connector apart which houses wire 32 (as seen below) If I take the male plug (engine side) of the firewall connector after separating it and stick a wire into wire 32 prong and touch it to the + post on the battery I get starter rotation. (so that checks everything up to the firewall plug)
If it put my + V meter probe into the female side (firewall side) of the wire 32 socket and the - probe to ground and hit the key to start I get no voltage
It worked fine last time I used it and since forever. I did install a new master cylinder for the brakes but thats only 2 bolts but it is near the firewall connector but Im guessing coincidence.
In the car everything acts the same I get power to all the little ****s and lights and everything when I roll to start the ****s go out like they always did (radio, dash lights ect) I get a single click from something but no starter.
any ideas?
Thanks
-Gun
#3
No NSS
How can I actually test the switch. Is there a way to pull that whole mess out of the dash?
Do the wires connect to back or do they go inside to the tumbler? I probably should find a picture of this
How can I actually test the switch. Is there a way to pull that whole mess out of the dash?
Do the wires connect to back or do they go inside to the tumbler? I probably should find a picture of this
#4
Foghorn Leghorn
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: I reside in a near constant state of amazment.
Posts: 2,923
They connect on the back and if I recall, you can access the leads through the connector. A tool that I waited way too long to buy but proved invaluable in saving me from scratching the crap out of my dash when pulling the ignition switch out was one of these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-68-Must...EAAOSwMVdYITp0
They are a helluva lot nicer than using a flat tip screw driver to unscrew the bezel
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-68-Must...EAAOSwMVdYITp0
They are a helluva lot nicer than using a flat tip screw driver to unscrew the bezel
Last edited by fastbackford351; 08-17-2017 at 11:32 AM.
#5
Neutral start/safety switch. That would prevent you getting 12V to the fender solenoid. find your switch and temporarily bypass it. See if it fires up.
Nevermind, I see you did that already...
Nevermind, I see you did that already...
Last edited by Derf00; 08-17-2017 at 02:05 PM.
#6
Got the ignition switch out
There is the single main power post and three spade connectors. One of them is red/blue.
On the red/blue connector when I roll the switch to start I get no continuity between that connector and the 12v in main power post. I get noting on that connector in any position. I took the switch apart it had a bunch of crap around the starter contact. I cleaned it up real nice it looked good...still nothing.
So I guess thats the issue.
There is the single main power post and three spade connectors. One of them is red/blue.
On the red/blue connector when I roll the switch to start I get no continuity between that connector and the 12v in main power post. I get noting on that connector in any position. I took the switch apart it had a bunch of crap around the starter contact. I cleaned it up real nice it looked good...still nothing.
So I guess thats the issue.
#8
I got it.
After thinking about what was said I thought about the NSS..
Well the car doesn't have a NSS but it does have the old wire loom which for it apparently, which makes sense as it was an original auto. Looking back at the diagram I see the drawing for the terminal for the NSS connector and I was like I know that plug...its that goofy one hanging out by the firewall (engine side which seems odd) with a shunt stuck in it.
So I checked the wire color and sure enough its red/blue.
The shunt corroded and lost contact. Im going to cut the terminal off and solder the wire together.
Thanks for the hints/tips and tricks!
After thinking about what was said I thought about the NSS..
Well the car doesn't have a NSS but it does have the old wire loom which for it apparently, which makes sense as it was an original auto. Looking back at the diagram I see the drawing for the terminal for the NSS connector and I was like I know that plug...its that goofy one hanging out by the firewall (engine side which seems odd) with a shunt stuck in it.
So I checked the wire color and sure enough its red/blue.
The shunt corroded and lost contact. Im going to cut the terminal off and solder the wire together.
Thanks for the hints/tips and tricks!