'66 200 engine rebuild - help me spend money!
#1
'66 200 engine rebuild - help me spend money!
Have poor leakdown on #2 due to busted rings, so decided to rebuild the engine.
Head was cracked, so found a '80 250 head to install.
Now what?
Reading a LOT of threads, and it seems there are quite a few cam choices. Which one for family cruising?
Need .030 over pistons. Any better than the others?
Also want a 2 bbl carb and adapter. Which one?
Which headers?
Which distributor?
What else am I missing?
Not a no budget build, but I do have a little cash to throw at this.
If it were your car, how would you build up the engine for family cruise night?
I searched and couldnt find this combo.
Also read the classic inlines stuff, but am still a little confused.
Thanks!!
BK
Head was cracked, so found a '80 250 head to install.
Now what?
Reading a LOT of threads, and it seems there are quite a few cam choices. Which one for family cruising?
Need .030 over pistons. Any better than the others?
Also want a 2 bbl carb and adapter. Which one?
Which headers?
Which distributor?
What else am I missing?
Not a no budget build, but I do have a little cash to throw at this.
If it were your car, how would you build up the engine for family cruise night?
I searched and couldnt find this combo.
Also read the classic inlines stuff, but am still a little confused.
Thanks!!
BK
#2
ok, xlnt.
clifford performance is 2 miles from me, lol.
In as much detail as possible, tell us EXACTLY what you want to achieve.
do want a glass smooth idle or a slightly rough/lopey idle?
do you want lots of bottom end power or do you want less bottom end and more top end and more peak rpm?
do you want single exhaust or dual exhaust?
As you probably know by now, compression is king so you will need to mill the bejesus out of that head or get custom pistons. if you get custom pistons i would get 4032 material ones. call je and race tech and diamond.
If you want faster acceleration off the line, you must change your rear gear ratio.
ford duraspark is a common upgrade but you need to set the timing curve for optimal perf on your particular engine. davis unified also makes a distributor.
the ford 2v or clifford 2v . the clifford is a lot more money, however, unless you put a lot of hp in the engine, you can just use a stock late model 250 carb. it is plenty big enough for your app. classic inlines also has a 1 barrel 200 cfm "vaporizer" but it may be discontinued. call for info.
i use remflex exhaust gaskets. i would get a header with at least a 5/16" flange with 3/8" being better.
clifford performance is 2 miles from me, lol.
In as much detail as possible, tell us EXACTLY what you want to achieve.
do want a glass smooth idle or a slightly rough/lopey idle?
do you want lots of bottom end power or do you want less bottom end and more top end and more peak rpm?
do you want single exhaust or dual exhaust?
As you probably know by now, compression is king so you will need to mill the bejesus out of that head or get custom pistons. if you get custom pistons i would get 4032 material ones. call je and race tech and diamond.
If you want faster acceleration off the line, you must change your rear gear ratio.
ford duraspark is a common upgrade but you need to set the timing curve for optimal perf on your particular engine. davis unified also makes a distributor.
the ford 2v or clifford 2v . the clifford is a lot more money, however, unless you put a lot of hp in the engine, you can just use a stock late model 250 carb. it is plenty big enough for your app. classic inlines also has a 1 barrel 200 cfm "vaporizer" but it may be discontinued. call for info.
i use remflex exhaust gaskets. i would get a header with at least a 5/16" flange with 3/8" being better.
Last edited by barnett468; 05-18-2018 at 11:20 PM.
#3
I will say my 200 with a 2bbl never ran near as well as my grandfather's 200 and 250 did with the original 1bbl on it. We both had upgraded ignitions and headers as well.
I'd also skip ordering anything from Classic Inlines, the guy is somewhat of a douche and thinks everything he does is perfect even though we found several issues with his products but he wanted no part of it.
I'd also skip ordering anything from Classic Inlines, the guy is somewhat of a douche and thinks everything he does is perfect even though we found several issues with his products but he wanted no part of it.
#4
Thanks guys.
This will be a weekend cruiser with the family.
Dont need ludicrous speed, just pimp along on nice days.
No lumpy idle want something nice and smooth.
Dont mind stock, but thought there might be something better than 50 year old technology.
This will be a weekend cruiser with the family.
Dont need ludicrous speed, just pimp along on nice days.
No lumpy idle want something nice and smooth.
Dont mind stock, but thought there might be something better than 50 year old technology.
#5
ok, i would just keep it simple then and get a late model 1 barrel carb. mill the head to regain the compression you are loosing with that head and run something like the howards cam.
i will post more specific info later tonight
#6
ok, here ya go . this is by far the very best way to do this.
have the block zero decked
use a fel pro head gasket
get custom pistons made from race tech. they are around $575.00 with rings. they will need to have around an 8.5 cc dome to make the compression around 9.5 if the head has not been milled in which case it should around 62 cc's, but you need to have the head volume measured first to determine exactly how much dome the pistons will need. you also need the piston machined for the larger 250 ci head valves. race tech has the program for this already.
have race tech get you plasma moly 5/64" rings.
i would have the head pocket ported at the very least. if the exhaust valve seats are really bad i would have hardened seats installed by someone that knows what the heck they are doing. if the valves have rotators on them i would remove them.
you will need slightly stiffer valve springs. comp cams should have them.
this is the cam i would use. it is a tiny bit bigger than stock but has longer exhaust duration which will help greatly in your case.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...rviewmake/ford
almost any header will do but i would run 8" of straight pipe off the flange of the header before i reduced the pipe size if you reduce it.
heres a new orig style 250 carb
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/New-...or_p_4604.html
this setup will basically give you more power everywhere thru the entire rpm band and it will still idle pretty smoothly.
if you use a noisy muffler like a flowmaster, it will have just a little rumble to it.
.
have the block zero decked
use a fel pro head gasket
get custom pistons made from race tech. they are around $575.00 with rings. they will need to have around an 8.5 cc dome to make the compression around 9.5 if the head has not been milled in which case it should around 62 cc's, but you need to have the head volume measured first to determine exactly how much dome the pistons will need. you also need the piston machined for the larger 250 ci head valves. race tech has the program for this already.
have race tech get you plasma moly 5/64" rings.
i would have the head pocket ported at the very least. if the exhaust valve seats are really bad i would have hardened seats installed by someone that knows what the heck they are doing. if the valves have rotators on them i would remove them.
you will need slightly stiffer valve springs. comp cams should have them.
this is the cam i would use. it is a tiny bit bigger than stock but has longer exhaust duration which will help greatly in your case.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...rviewmake/ford
almost any header will do but i would run 8" of straight pipe off the flange of the header before i reduced the pipe size if you reduce it.
heres a new orig style 250 carb
http://www.carburetor-parts.com/New-...or_p_4604.html
this setup will basically give you more power everywhere thru the entire rpm band and it will still idle pretty smoothly.
if you use a noisy muffler like a flowmaster, it will have just a little rumble to it.
.
Last edited by barnett468; 05-21-2018 at 05:45 PM.
#8
Also, the less you mill the head, the less likely it is to run hot if you have a stock cooling system. You can mill them a lot and not have problems but you should use a bigger rad and better fan than a stock one has which isn't a bad idea anyway, especially if you live where it gets hot.
If you build it exactly as I suggested, it will run killer for a stock type engine and will have noticeably more power, I guarantee you, however, it still won't roast the rear tire...unless it is raining, lol.
.
Last edited by barnett468; 05-27-2018 at 10:44 AM.
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