mystery544

I'm about to just buy a new engine and dash wiring harness and regulator and then whatever else I can buy. This is frustrating.

Gun Jam

The one wire setups are pretty straight forward.



how is yours wired up?
I run a mini starter on my t5 but I still run a secondary solenoid for it. In my case the + cable runs to the + post on the solenoid and then off the same + post a 2nd cable runs to the back of the Alt. so its 2 cables bolted together by the + post on the solenoid (its acts as a single cable touching the + post on the solenoid)



Unfortunately a new wiring harness would likley not solve the issue as its divorced from the system



can you post pics of how the cable runs to the alt from the battery any any stops it makes?

mystery544

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1253qFtNrkdIH704FYwBldm7BX98fK8qT

It goes from starter solenoid to alternator, w/o break.

mystery544

Accidentally slipped the battery ground pic in there

Gun Jam

So the heavy red cable with the red split loom goes to the battery?
The smaller red wire behind it on the same post goes to the alt?

mystery544

Yes sir

Gun Jam

its a side post battery and you bolt to it?


Also is the cable that runs to the ALT from the Solenoid directly behind the battery cable on the solenoid post???? and its large flat connector is making full contact with the battery cable?

mystery544

The battery is top post, last owner had adapters for easier disconnect (wing nuts to secure it)

The 2 cables are indeed making full contact on the solenoid

Gun Jam

Oh okay... those are possibly okay if they are really clean and tight im not a fan of them.


Also it sounds like the cable is good to go as well.


so we have appeared to narrow this down to an intermittent problem that appears random (not load related)


It could be the alternator thats becoming more suspect.


There is almost always a pattern to intermittent failures for example its fine until it: warms up or gets wiggled or cools off or gets put under load or sits for a while...


at this point the it looks like we are down to only a few choices.


You could have the alt tested BUT if it only is bad when hot then it could test good and then you'll really be lost...but if its not working when you start the car maybe pull it out then and have it tested...If it test bad problem solved.


OR if this was my problem I would buy a simple volt meter (for now) hell even your test meter could work but for a few bucks at an autopart store you can get a good enough one digital or gauge that does just volts.


I would wire it in as simple as possible for now. I would run the + and - wire for the volt meter to the battery post (screw them down along with the battery wire.) then you could find or drill a small hole in the firewall for them to go though OR just run them out from the back of the hood into the vent window and to the gauge which you can set on a seat or console. Just make sure the wire is not pinched and cant short out duct tape across the back) You can buy small wire in spools at autoparts stores that would work well.


This very simple install will let you watch what the voltage does as you drive...This will open up a whole new world into how that system is acting. Its likley the best idea at this time until you can observe it in the wild.


I run 2 dedicated volt meters / monitors in my car they are quite useful and I can catch charging failures before they are an issue

mystery544

I really hope it's not the alternator, as it's brand new. If it is, though, there must be something that caused it to fail, no? I have noticed it becoming very hot - but my entire engine bay in general is very hot especially here in El Paso.

I've been trickle charging the battery all day, so hopefully tomorrow I'll get the opportunity to go to Autozone or Oreilly's and find a voltmeter to do what you suggest, in addition to testing the alternator

Once again, I really appreciate the help.