05 06 tension cable rattle
02-11-2008, 09:19 PM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 628
05 06 tension cable rattle
Check out this tsb, many of us have that annoying rattle type sound when going over bumps & it sounds like its coming from the latch area. The test in the TSB sounds just like the noise. The repair is replacing the tension cables with a newer style that are teflon coated. Does anyone familar with the top assembly know how to replace the cables, I hate letting the dealer have my car twice to do an easy job I could do myself. The parts listed in the repair TSB do not come up when plugged into ford parts web sites. Can they be obtainedby the public or are they just for TSB repairs. Can the existing cable be lubed with talcum power through a tube of some sort to stop the binding. Thanks in advance.
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...b4_12-1-06.pdf
http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/alb...b4_12-1-06.pdf
02-13-2008, 07:07 PM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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RE: 05 06 tension cable rattle
[hr]
I do not have good experiences with the dealer waranty work & only take the car there for dyer repairs. When the car was brand new (probably before I bought it), the cylinder that raises the top leaked & made a mess in th car, I discovered it when my son sitting in the front passenger seat put the belt on & he had oil all over his shirt (the cylinder is right over the seat belt retainer behind the quarter trim. The bone heads replaced the cylinder and the rear seatbelt which is in the trunk, I was so mad, they had to keep the car another day & replace the front belt.
That being said I set out this morning to figure out how to stop that cable from binding & came up with a quick solution that worked perfect. Cornstarch is a good lubricant and is used in many body powders to stop chafing. I raised the top to its straight up position & located the spot where the cable went into the pocket about 6" from the front of the cover. I then took about 4 or 5 feet of fish tank tubing & stuck it in about 1" right next to the cable shooting straight down. Then I shoved the other end into the box of cornstarch to get some in the end then I used my blow gun hooked to my compressor to blow the cornstarch through the tube & into the pocket with the cable. The entire pocket inflated slightly as I watched the cornstarch traver throught the tube. I did this about 4 times and probably put 1/2 a tablespoon in all in the pocket. I lowered the top & did the test in the TSB which is tugging on the edge of the top & within a few tugs it was smooth. I did the other side & weht for a ride & hit every bump I used to avoid cause I hated that noise. It worked perfect.
[/align]
I do not have good experiences with the dealer waranty work & only take the car there for dyer repairs. When the car was brand new (probably before I bought it), the cylinder that raises the top leaked & made a mess in th car, I discovered it when my son sitting in the front passenger seat put the belt on & he had oil all over his shirt (the cylinder is right over the seat belt retainer behind the quarter trim. The bone heads replaced the cylinder and the rear seatbelt which is in the trunk, I was so mad, they had to keep the car another day & replace the front belt.
That being said I set out this morning to figure out how to stop that cable from binding & came up with a quick solution that worked perfect. Cornstarch is a good lubricant and is used in many body powders to stop chafing. I raised the top to its straight up position & located the spot where the cable went into the pocket about 6" from the front of the cover. I then took about 4 or 5 feet of fish tank tubing & stuck it in about 1" right next to the cable shooting straight down. Then I shoved the other end into the box of cornstarch to get some in the end then I used my blow gun hooked to my compressor to blow the cornstarch through the tube & into the pocket with the cable. The entire pocket inflated slightly as I watched the cornstarch traver throught the tube. I did this about 4 times and probably put 1/2 a tablespoon in all in the pocket. I lowered the top & did the test in the TSB which is tugging on the edge of the top & within a few tugs it was smooth. I did the other side & weht for a ride & hit every bump I used to avoid cause I hated that noise. It worked perfect.
[/align]
02-19-2008, 11:17 AM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 94
RE: 05 06 tension cable rattle
Thanks for posting the TSB. I have that rattle in my 07 GT Convertible (8/06 buuild) during severe bumps, and never would have guessed the cause. It's my first convertible, and I just assumed rattles like that were normal. I'll have it fixed under warranty eventually.
03-20-2008, 08:48 PM
#4
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RE: 05 06 tension cable rattle
Well today I replaced the cables with the revised cables & my top is quiet as can be. I'm very pleased. This job is not for the novice but wasn't that hard. If you got the guts pm me & I'll give you some tips or let the dealer do it. The original cable is plastic coated, the new cable is steel with a teflon sheath it rides through. Only special tool needed I had was a pop rivet tool. So nice to go over rail road tracks and not hear that clackity clack sound
04-10-2008, 10:40 AM
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 94
RE: 05 06 tension cable rattle
I tried the PM route, but no response. Anyone else have experience with this fix, or know how much the parts cost? I have the Workshop Manual instructions. I could also have this done under warranty, but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle since I didn't buy my car locally.
04-10-2008, 03:25 PM
#6
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RE: 05 06 tension cable rattle
Sorry for not pm ing back, this will be quite involved and I type slow so here it is for everyone.
The parts are listed in the TSB I got 4 rivets cause there cheap but I only used 2. The parts will run you about $70.00, the one cable costs twice as much as the other and they look the same.
This repair is so worth it, my top is silent.
I would recomend having the dealer do it cause its kinda involved but if you got he guts here you go.
First remove the sill trim (piece under te door or kick plate.
Next remove the back seat bottom, push in 2 clips under the pad and lift out.
Remove the quarter top trim piece above where front seat belt comes out, it lifts up with clips.
Remove the quarter trim next to the seat, some uppolstery clips and snaps things (no tools needed yet).
Put the top up pretty high almost straight up and the cable will be slack.
Locate the cable, it comes out of the edge of the top & goes through a yoke and turns toward the back of the car and gets hooked to a spring.
Loosen but do not remove the 2 bolts holding the yoke (aluminum piece) in place, remove the yoke,it will still be arround the cable.
Note the 2 star lock washers on the yoke bolts they need to be in the right position (toward inside of car) when you put it back together.
Next grab ahead of the spring with some needle nose pliers and pull it so you can release the cablefrom the loop in the end of the spring.
Turn the yoke thing so you can look at the plastic pieces you will note that there are 2together, you can pull the cable between them and get the cable to release from the yoke.
Tie a strong piece of string (I uses mason line) throught he loop in the end of the cable then tape it up with some electrical tape so it doesn't get caught on anythong on the way through.
Now close the top most of the way to straighten out the top & cable to pull it out
Look under the weatherstripping about 6 inches from the front of the top & locate the other end of the cable near the edge of the top.
Pull the cable through along with the string.
Take your new cable out (theres a right or left so look at the tsb & compare part numbers), & remove the spring from the end, ( I saw no reason to use the new spring)
Here is the scary part, you must drill out the rivet drilling straight up toward the top of the top but not through obviously. I used several drill bits starting small then going larger till I had the entire rivet out.
The front end of the cable will come out sideways through a slot.
Cut the string loose & tie it to the new cable & tape it.
Pull the new cable through the top & slide the large end through the slot in the front.
The only special tool you will need now a pop rivet gun you can get at home depot or lowes.
Put the new rivet in the gun and put the rivet through the cable end & into the hole in the frame and squeeze until the rivet pops.
Now go to the back and slide the teflon tube all the way forward if it isn't already.
Force the yoke back onto the cable make sure its the right way, plastic pieces go to the outside, (I did one backwards).
If you havent already put the top straight up again.
Pull on the end of the spring & hook the new cable through the loop on the end.
Put the yoke back in place being sure to get the lock washers behind the head of the bolt then push back on the aluminum bar while tightening the bolts. The aluminum bar is kind of slotted and you need to push it toward the rear of the car or you will have a gap at the back of the top where it goes into the car.
Thats it now do the other side and put your interior back together and enjoy your quiet top.
The teflon tube takes all the scratchy sound out of the bumps.
The parts are listed in the TSB I got 4 rivets cause there cheap but I only used 2. The parts will run you about $70.00, the one cable costs twice as much as the other and they look the same.
This repair is so worth it, my top is silent.
I would recomend having the dealer do it cause its kinda involved but if you got he guts here you go.
First remove the sill trim (piece under te door or kick plate.
Next remove the back seat bottom, push in 2 clips under the pad and lift out.
Remove the quarter top trim piece above where front seat belt comes out, it lifts up with clips.
Remove the quarter trim next to the seat, some uppolstery clips and snaps things (no tools needed yet).
Put the top up pretty high almost straight up and the cable will be slack.
Locate the cable, it comes out of the edge of the top & goes through a yoke and turns toward the back of the car and gets hooked to a spring.
Loosen but do not remove the 2 bolts holding the yoke (aluminum piece) in place, remove the yoke,it will still be arround the cable.
Note the 2 star lock washers on the yoke bolts they need to be in the right position (toward inside of car) when you put it back together.
Next grab ahead of the spring with some needle nose pliers and pull it so you can release the cablefrom the loop in the end of the spring.
Turn the yoke thing so you can look at the plastic pieces you will note that there are 2together, you can pull the cable between them and get the cable to release from the yoke.
Tie a strong piece of string (I uses mason line) throught he loop in the end of the cable then tape it up with some electrical tape so it doesn't get caught on anythong on the way through.
Now close the top most of the way to straighten out the top & cable to pull it out
Look under the weatherstripping about 6 inches from the front of the top & locate the other end of the cable near the edge of the top.
Pull the cable through along with the string.
Take your new cable out (theres a right or left so look at the tsb & compare part numbers), & remove the spring from the end, ( I saw no reason to use the new spring)
Here is the scary part, you must drill out the rivet drilling straight up toward the top of the top but not through obviously. I used several drill bits starting small then going larger till I had the entire rivet out.
The front end of the cable will come out sideways through a slot.
Cut the string loose & tie it to the new cable & tape it.
Pull the new cable through the top & slide the large end through the slot in the front.
The only special tool you will need now a pop rivet gun you can get at home depot or lowes.
Put the new rivet in the gun and put the rivet through the cable end & into the hole in the frame and squeeze until the rivet pops.
Now go to the back and slide the teflon tube all the way forward if it isn't already.
Force the yoke back onto the cable make sure its the right way, plastic pieces go to the outside, (I did one backwards).
If you havent already put the top straight up again.
Pull on the end of the spring & hook the new cable through the loop on the end.
Put the yoke back in place being sure to get the lock washers behind the head of the bolt then push back on the aluminum bar while tightening the bolts. The aluminum bar is kind of slotted and you need to push it toward the rear of the car or you will have a gap at the back of the top where it goes into the car.
Thats it now do the other side and put your interior back together and enjoy your quiet top.
The teflon tube takes all the scratchy sound out of the bumps.
07-07-2008, 02:40 PM
#8
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 31
RE: 05 06 tension cable rattle
Hi Guys,
I posted this under another thread and was pointed over here.
Hi everyone,
I have an 06 V6 pony pckg. vert. The car only has 15000 highway miles on it.When I hit a rough patch of road, pothole, or RR tracks I thinkthat my top is making noise. This dull thunk type rattle was not there when I got it but has become an annoyance to me. I first was thinking it was the unoccupied passenger seat making this rattlingnoise. I had a Camaro with T-Tops and the passenger seat rattled! I, howeverno longer think that is the noisemaker. I read the TSBand it is not a tick, pop, snap or creak (although I think a noise like that comes fromthe glove box area)! I definitely have a dull muted type rattle whenever I hit a bump. I have had the car at the dealer for the dash noise twice and the dealertold methey can't hear it, but on the way home I wish I had theservice guy with me cause it was definitely rattling. Funny thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. I digress... The car did not havethis dull rattlewhen I got it. The "dashboard" noise I noticed a day or two later!I have had the roof adjusted for a leak once and now that I think of it, the problem may have started shortly after that.
So in your sage opinions is this dull rattle the tension cable? Do you think if I took it in and said I think I am getting a rattle from the tension cable they will look at me like I have two heads. Just like the "Cant be Heard" glovebox tick/popping!
TIA,
Max Bryant
I posted this under another thread and was pointed over here.
Hi everyone,
I have an 06 V6 pony pckg. vert. The car only has 15000 highway miles on it.When I hit a rough patch of road, pothole, or RR tracks I thinkthat my top is making noise. This dull thunk type rattle was not there when I got it but has become an annoyance to me. I first was thinking it was the unoccupied passenger seat making this rattlingnoise. I had a Camaro with T-Tops and the passenger seat rattled! I, howeverno longer think that is the noisemaker. I read the TSBand it is not a tick, pop, snap or creak (although I think a noise like that comes fromthe glove box area)! I definitely have a dull muted type rattle whenever I hit a bump. I have had the car at the dealer for the dash noise twice and the dealertold methey can't hear it, but on the way home I wish I had theservice guy with me cause it was definitely rattling. Funny thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. I digress... The car did not havethis dull rattlewhen I got it. The "dashboard" noise I noticed a day or two later!I have had the roof adjusted for a leak once and now that I think of it, the problem may have started shortly after that.
So in your sage opinions is this dull rattle the tension cable? Do you think if I took it in and said I think I am getting a rattle from the tension cable they will look at me like I have two heads. Just like the "Cant be Heard" glovebox tick/popping!
TIA,
Max Bryant
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