All4One

I've always wanted to fix up my paint, but never had anyone to show me how. Picking up some items today to finally get started on it.
Meg's clay bar kit
Ultimate quick detailer
ultimate compound polish
ultra finishing polish
nu finish wax

Will post pics when I finally get around to actually cleaning it.
Anything else I should try instead?

AJ06GT

Do you have an actual polisher? Hand polishing will get you no where. And if you've never polished, don't get a roatary polisher. Those can burn the paint really easily.

I do a dish soap wash to strip any old wax, then clay, rewash, then polish, rewash, wax. Not too hard, just takes time.

All4One

I've got a polisher, but I'm afraid its not a random. It's a craftsman 6 inch sander/polisher model 315.115030. I may sell it and pick up something new.

AJ06GT

If it's a sander/polisher, it's probably *rotary. I wouldn't try that on your Mustang if you haven't used one before. You have to get your speed and pressure just right with those or your paint will be toast. I think a lot of people like the Porter Cable DA for an inexpensive polisher. Either way, watch a couple YouTube videos so you get a feel for how fast to go and you should be alright. I would suggest trying on a beater if you have one first though.

Edit: Corrected orbital with rotary, that's what I meant to say!

SON1C

IMO

no rotaries

no nu finish

those are weak otc products

I would suggest v32 and m205 by DA ex. griots garage polisher or porter cable etc
5" pads
uww+ at a quick detail ratio, or meg's final inspection, cg speed wipe, adams detail spray etc

mith

Sonic, I'm off today and was out in the garage smoking. I saw a bottle of, "Nu Finish" that I'd bought. I thought about using it, but after reading this, I think I'll just throw it out since you say it's worthless.

I'll use my Maguire's 2.0 swirl remover which seems to work. However, I need to wash my pads as they're quite dirty. Thanks for the above opinion... again, I'm going to throw out the rest of the Nu Fisnish swirl remover that I bought.

DocSnickers

This is a good DVD on proper techniques with using orbitals.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks

mith

Food for thought. I had a motorcycle a while back. I put a $3,000 paint job on it. While in the paint place, I went to check on it's progress. I watched the employees buff it. They didn't have orbitals, nor did they use the other buffers and have the "orbital" motion. They were straight buffers. Now I understand that those people know what they're doing and using a non-orbital type buffer can be hazardous if you don't know what you're doing. Having said that... the fact remains that these professionals were using regular buffers.

I use a regular buffer because I want to get the same results and expect that after trial and error, I'll get the hang of it and will eventually get the same results that they got with my cycle. And so far (after burning through some of my plastic add-ons such as the hood scoop etc.) I'm pleased with my progress. I've almost completely removed all micro-scratches and I'm a noobie who's in the infancy of the learning curve!

So if you're willing to take the plunge... I don't feel there's anything wrong with using a regular grinder/sander type machine as this is exactly what the professionals that did my cycle, used.

Good luck to ya what ever you end up using. Eventually you'll learn how to use it... and hopefully, you don't do any damage to your paint. Just remember, light pressure and slow speeds. Start slow and work your way up until you get the hang of what you're doing to get the best results.

SON1C

I wouldn't throw it out, simply gift it to someone who's into their car but won't take the time to learn how to care for it better or spend the money to acquire quality products
2.0 isn't a bad product there are just better alternatives available imo

SON1C

you can use rotaries, but why? DA's are fool proof, you would have already paid for it by the cost of ruining your hoodscoop?
jmo though