Well, I took my car home today. Total cost of the rebuild and new radiator was about $4500.

I started it up by doing my usual--pump it a couple of times, put the gas pedal down about half way, then turn the key. Didn't start. I was told just to turn the key without touching my gas pedal and the car started right up. As soon as I pushed on the gas, the car died. I had to let the car warm up for about 5 minutes before I could even push on the gas. I'm thinking I may need a new carb., either that or I need to put the other air filter on (not enough air getting to the carb?).

Two blocks from the shop I'm at a stoplight and decide to put the pedal to the metal just to see if there is any difference in power, and to see if the car would just die on me like it had done at the shop. Instead, the pedal stuck and there I was pushing with both feet on the (manual drum) brakes while reaching down and trying to pull the gas pedal up. On the third try I pulled so hard that I disconnected the entire throttle assembly from the carburator. I coasted to the side of the road and put everything back. I guess I won't be flooring it anytime soon.

Anyway, the car still doesn't run very well. When I push on the gas pedal I get hesitation. Also it seems that the (auto) transmission has something wrong with it. I was in the passing gear most of the time. The only time the car would shift to 3rd was on a downhill.

Well, thanks for reading my frustration
Rob

 

sounds like they didn't take it for a test drive. you very well could have a vacuum leak, or they didn't hook the vacuum lines up correctly.
the timing should be checked also.

Did they talk to you about breaking it in ?

 

When the engine is cold, hit the gas pedal to the floor. Do not start the car. Then take off the air filter and see if the choke butterfly is closed. If not, then that is why you are having hesitation when it is cold. Adjust your choke. As far as the throttle getting stuck, you need to adjust your throttle linkage so it doesn't bind.

 

He did something that I thought was very strange. I'm not very familiar with the engine, so bear with me. In front of the carb about 6 inches or so was a hole that I think was used for vacuum. He plugged it up and told me that he used the holes in the back instead. I'll be sure to take pics as soon as I can.

About breaking it in--no one told me anything about breaking it in, but I've read a few things here. I guess it was a bad idea to floor it right after I got it.


Edit: I posted some pics here. You can see the hole in front of the carb which has been covered. You can also see that the carb has a line which goes to the back of the cylinder head.

[IMG]local://upfiles/34711/2FD72D60E74C42CD820EC1EC55F64FB3.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/34711/B521290A58504673AD52636AEA6D2CC5.jpg[/IMG]

 

What did they do for $4500????

 

If it's not going into 3rd gear, they have the linkage set wrong.

 

Next time the pedal gets stuck, put the car in neutral and slow down.

 

That's why I'm posting pictures....I was hoping you guys could tell me! Cost $2500 for the rebuild itself (including .40 bore, new cylinder head, and all the parts). Then another $2000 for the mechanic to take out the engine, deliver the engine to the machine shop, assemble the engine after the rebuild, tune up, radiator, paint, tranny leak fix, and power steering fix, etc.

 

is there a vacuum line coming from the rear of the transmission ? if so, where is it connected?

 

I have never worked on a straight 6 but something looks odd to me in that photo. Are those vacuum lines connected to the PCV port? The PVC port should not have vacuum lines hooked to it, it is a vent for the crankcase. vacuum lines should be connected to a manifold vacuum or the bottom of the carb. Is that correct, or am I missing something?