any pointers?
ok, so since school has started i have about 1/4 of the time to work on my then i had before. ive been basically practicing my welding for the past 2 weeks. most of my welds are holding up really well but im stil gett quite a bit of splatter. anyone got any pointers for me? power level and wire speed? maybe theres some magic angle i have to hold my hand at to get the best out of it. its a flux core welder only, no gas. i have this saturday off and possibly most of friday. i realy really really want to finish body work so i can get it prepped and painted! i want to drive my classic to school like the others! theres 3 very nice classics at my school. one old chevelle and one early 70's cutlass. 2 stangs are 65's and the other a 67. all have nice paint and they sound awesome. i wanna join them and be cool...
Keep the wire 1" from the tip, and stay out of the wind. Spatter comes from lack of gas shielding. It takes an inch from the gun tip for the gas to form an envelope. Some people take off the outer shield when working with Flux core. I haven't needed to go that far.
Wire speed and amperage are more to do with good weld penetration and a proper bead.
I prefer my tip to stay as close to 90 degrees from the work as I can. Mostly that is to I can manipulate the puddle in a consistent fashion, so I get a nice "row of nickles" looking weld.
Just like a doctor, it's all about having a good practice
Wire speed and amperage are more to do with good weld penetration and a proper bead.
I prefer my tip to stay as close to 90 degrees from the work as I can. Mostly that is to I can manipulate the puddle in a consistent fashion, so I get a nice "row of nickles" looking weld.
Just like a doctor, it's all about having a good practice
ORIGINAL: Scott H.
Keep the wire 1" from the tip, and stay out of the wind. Spatter comes from lack of gas shielding. It takes an inch from the gun tip for the gas to form an envelope. Some people take off the outer shield when working with Flux core. I haven't needed to go that far.
Wire speed and amperage are more to do with good weld penetration and a proper bead.
I prefer my tip to stay as close to 90 degrees from the work as I can. Mostly that is to I can manipulate the puddle in a consistent fashion, so I get a nice "row of nickles" looking weld.
Just like a doctor, it's all about having a good practice
Keep the wire 1" from the tip, and stay out of the wind. Spatter comes from lack of gas shielding. It takes an inch from the gun tip for the gas to form an envelope. Some people take off the outer shield when working with Flux core. I haven't needed to go that far.
Wire speed and amperage are more to do with good weld penetration and a proper bead.
I prefer my tip to stay as close to 90 degrees from the work as I can. Mostly that is to I can manipulate the puddle in a consistent fashion, so I get a nice "row of nickles" looking weld.
Just like a doctor, it's all about having a good practice
Dont lay a bead on sheetmetal like that.. Such as fenders or quarter panels.. if you just lay a nice bead down them, you will warp the metal so badly it probably wont line up at the other end..
The way you do those is spot welds, limited heat around the area. But you still gotta have enough to actually weld it together. One row of spots a few inches apart, then one inside them, then one inside them, and so on untill the fender is on. Let it cool between rows.. Wish I could explain it better.. if I was at that stage I would take pics to show you what I mean...
The way you do those is spot welds, limited heat around the area. But you still gotta have enough to actually weld it together. One row of spots a few inches apart, then one inside them, then one inside them, and so on untill the fender is on. Let it cool between rows.. Wish I could explain it better.. if I was at that stage I would take pics to show you what I mean...
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
Dont lay a bead on sheetmetal like that.. Such as fenders or quarter panels.. if you just lay a nice bead down them, you will warp the metal so badly it probably wont line up at the other end..
The way you do those is spot welds, limited heat around the area. But you still gotta have enough to actually weld it together. One row of spots a few inches apart, then one inside them, then one inside them, and so on untill the fender is on. Let it cool between rows.. Wish I could explain it better.. if I was at that stage I would take pics to show you what I mean...
Dont lay a bead on sheetmetal like that.. Such as fenders or quarter panels.. if you just lay a nice bead down them, you will warp the metal so badly it probably wont line up at the other end..
The way you do those is spot welds, limited heat around the area. But you still gotta have enough to actually weld it together. One row of spots a few inches apart, then one inside them, then one inside them, and so on untill the fender is on. Let it cool between rows.. Wish I could explain it better.. if I was at that stage I would take pics to show you what I mean...
What are you welding? Quarters?
Good luck! I'm back in school too, and time is VERY VERY limited for me.
I have a 69 Mach 1 that my dad and I have been working on most of summer. Engine almost ready to go back in, but we keep running into problems. [:@]
Good luck! I'm back in school too, and time is VERY VERY limited for me.
I have a 69 Mach 1 that my dad and I have been working on most of summer. Engine almost ready to go back in, but we keep running into problems. [:@]
haha last year i barley got my Mach 1 into school. Now that i have it looking nice, i've already graduated. But those few days, oooh. They were nice, except for the burnout in the parking lot that got me Detention part. Good times.
Getting the mustang done in time for school? That was 20 years ago for me.. now I am tryin to get one of them done before the 20 year reunion next year.. even if I dont go to it..lol..


