NeoTokyo

I was wondering if I can use a Cobra T5 tranny with the same input shaft length ( 7.85 ) as my V6 T5. Does it bolt up correctly? Does everything function correctly? Obviosly I can still use a 11" clutch setup over the previos 10.5". I have heard some people say that you can't do it and I was just wanting a little more fact to that claim? I know I can use the GT T5 but is the Cobra T5 that much different?

The reason why I am asking is because my current T5 can only handle 265ft-lbs torque where as the Cobra T5 can handle 300 and 310ft-lbs torque. If they can swap out easily then I will keep my eyes open for a cheap 94/95 Cobra T5.


Thanks everyone!


-Neo-

vfast

not sure off hand I know the bell housing is different

callmecobra

its the same bellhousing...it will bolt right up, assuming your v6 is a 94/95....if its 96+, it wont work
but i still wouldnt recomend it. your v6 doenst need a stronger tranny. you will only lose rwhp putting a beafier transmission in

NeoTokyo

uh, erm, it needs it, trust me x_x

Im right at the point where I max out my stock torque specs but still weak for the best step up (Cobra)
In this case a Cobra T5 will not cause me to lose power, its the same as my World Class (borg-warner) except it has stronger materials.

My mustang is a 95' V6 Stang. Im mildly modded and plan to go to wildly modded before winter hits. Most of you know about my Twin turbo build up on this placid equine some of you may also know that I want a 94-98 Cobra as well, though I would prefer a 96-98 Cobra due to the massive amounts of power achievable and the turbo kits available, you guys know I dislike single turbo's! I want both to build. At heart I am a V8 man and there is nothing taking that away from me. I was born with a Muncie in my right, a Malibu wheel in the left and 8 Four-&-A-Quarter bore cylenders at my becon call.

anyways im getting off track, if I dont focus on my stangs then my Chevelle will get all the cash and I dont want to do that untill its ready to unvail! Im still doing the body, electrical, interior and suspension on it. Engine is last.... All those area's dont even make a third of what the engine is costing! lol Man you guys will **** a brick when you see it next year And yes I will put a Sacstangs.com sticker on the drivers side quarter window so do look for me. 1970 Chevelle Malibu, no badges, stock hood, 427 cubes of a turbo charged power. I chose the 427 for the awesome compliment of horsepower, torque, powerband and rpm curve.... To me its one of the most perfect engines. Because I dont want to ruin a peice of history I am using a Dart Big M with standard deck and 4.250" bore and the reinforced splayed main caps... yes expensive, very expensive... My father wants to take the 1965 Corvette 396 that we have and punch it out to a 413 but I dont really care for that idea. He also only wants to build it to 500hp NA Im thinking.... Um no? He went ahead and made a spec sheet and analized it on Desktop Dyno and got the results he predicted, but again im not fond of the idea. And for those of you who think DD is crap.... Its not, its actually fairly accurate and quite the helpful tool, it does get alot of bunk from people, but I dont care so dont even try to argue about DD because I wont respond.


BAH THERE I GO AGAIN! Ok ok... where was I... So if it bolts up then thats good, the input shafts match and the same bearing is used, the nothing needs to be altered, ok good good. Only way I think I would buy one though is if it were low mileage or freshly refurbished and under $400 because I can rebuild mine to 350 for under $800 though honestly that wont handle the power that I plan to put through this car, I need something that can do 600 guys. Yah I know, 600ft-lbs torque is alot, but thats the min of what I need and I am sure I will still break ****. I know my clutch is good for 600 so I will be buying from RAM for a long time. Also I need a good scatter shield, think I will weld myself one. My buds got an arc welder and I have been wanting to freshen up some old skills, also has a mig and a oxy too, should be loads of fun. Any have any suggestions on thicknesses of metal I should use? I could just call my dad I guess... I hate calling him for help cause I want to show him that I can be damn good on my own, but in reality I have everyone here to help me

So Cobra is good for now, I will look for a cheap one. Anyone know of any rebuild kits that can do around 600ft-lbs torque? If not can you guys mention some trannies for me that WILL WORK with a V6? Im guessing since the Cobra will bolt right up then I just search for a 94/95 aftermarket tranny that bolts up to that year range. Hmmm.

Ok im tired and what I just read over doesnt make much sense, hope i dont confuse most of you. Then then clear the page and start over I think I will just post it and hit the sac ^_^ NIGHT!


-Neo-

callmecobra

a beafier tranny will lose rwhp....and you will never blow up the tranny you have now....when i had my supercharged 4v, i was putting 460 hp to the ground, on a tranny that was rated at 350 crank hp i think

TheGmKiller331

Hes right about it bolting up to the 94-95 in fact the bell housings are thesame even.I know this from a 87 t-bird 3.8 CFI i swapped to a 302 bbl it bolted right up to the aod no problems.

i say go for it if you need it.It needs a beefier tranny if you are heavily modded for the fact that the T-5s werent exactly strong.

Dont worry about the rotating mass that you are going to gain (If any) with the V8 tranny it wont be noticeable.

NeoTokyo

Cool Cool.

And thanks for that bit of info in the T-Bird. I have an 87' Bird too with a 3.8 as well, i blew the drivers side head wide open not too long ago and its just sitting now. Thats kickass that a 302 will bolt right up. My father wants to put a 351C in it with a 8-71 supercharger.... How well do you suppose that will fit? Custome headers arent a big deal cause we can just make those with no prob. ~One pair of custom CrainRacing even length long tube headers coming up!~ My dad welds better then me so he would do the welding ^_^;;;

I have been scoping around for a Cobra tranny but they are hard to come by for those years, hell with alot of crap its year specific, 95 has alot of **** just for and only 95 X_X But its still fun. Also got my *** handed to me tonight from a 97ish Z28 with one hell of a cam and exhaust, he says he does 13's down the qaurter. Before we even started I accidently cut him off when 3 lanes turned to 2, A giant *** van was blocking my view and I was coming up in the closing lane. I appologized at the next light Turns out he is SacStangs too which kicks ***. He gave me like a 10 car length lead at a light and passed me like it was nothing, man I feel slow... LOL damn good fun

Thanks for the info again guys, its really helpful, anything more on V8 conversions for the 87' bird would be cool too.


-Neo-

callmecobra

seriously man, before you waste your time and money on a tranny, think about that 7.7 open differential rear end you still have

NeoTokyo

My rear end is not the weak end of the equation, I do plan on getting an Auburn Pro for it though, I would prefer to switch out to a 8.8" but I dont know how complicated that would be or if it just bolts right up. I use to think I had an 8.8" already because the guy that sold me the car said that it did, but the tags are 7.5. Currently the weakest part of my car is the transmission. Illiminating the weak points is more important then getting traction at this point in the game. Fortunatly the Aubrun Pro is something like 3 or 400 dollars so it is'nt that bad of a price. I think an Auburn Pro coupled with a set of richmond 3.73's will set me up nicely for traction and takeoff, thats looking at about $600 dollars though. I am not doing anymore engine mods to the engine in the stang now, I will do suspension and tranny back mods only. I am building another 3.8 outside of the car so thats just where the money will go as well. I have to find a 94-98 3.8L first.

The parts I need first hand as a base starting point are...

94-98 3.8L
97-99 4.2L IMRC F-150 lower and upper intake
99-01 3.8L splitport heads

Those three items will get me set perfectly for my 3.8 buildup. Of course though Im going to a 4.3L (0.030 over and stroked) I might go with a larger stroke and leave the bore alone seeing that I am boosting this engine and I would like to make it stronger in any way I can. I have seen these engines produce 450rwhp just NA so they arent weak, the 90 degree design is something killer for a sixer.

I am sending the heads off to SuperSix for their lv.4 job (Conical springs 0.520 lift max high rpm, 1.83" non adjustable roller rockers, 1.55/1.84" valves, port and polish, dremel the quench zone for lower comp, rocker girldle and ARP studs.) The lower intake is going to be ported, the upper intake is going to be ported and the exterior smoothed and polished for a high sheen to catch peoples eyes. The block is going to get custome main caps and all the oil valleys and passages cleared and expanded (All that work will be done by me.) For the larger bore the block will have to be notched in some area's (if i decide to go with a much large stroke) though the oil pan has pleanty of clearance.

All this and I still plan to buy a 94-98 Cobra and to finish my Chevelle X_X! *works overtime*

Anyways I got way off track i guess, heh sorry

callmecobra

if your car has enough hp to require a stonger tranny, i can guarantee you have traction probs...that should be first on the list. go to the junkyard, and get an 8.8 it will bolt right up. you will have slightly lower gears, and two wheels spinning instead of one.