Is anyone good with painting with the rattle spray paint can?
07-03-2006, 12:35 PM
#21
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RE: Is anyone good with painting with the rattle spray paint can?
either way iam doing it my self.. i had friends who painted their whole car flat black and it turned out rather well..
also.. i posted this same thread on a few forums and alot of people told me it should be a prety easy job and its prety hard to mess up a flat black paint job. and having it even doesn't really matter because its flat black.. it will never look even if it was even.
my main concern is how much sanding i should do.. i have 400 grit sand paper.. is JUST scuffing it up good enough? or do i need to make sure all the clear coat is gone?
also.. i posted this same thread on a few forums and alot of people told me it should be a prety easy job and its prety hard to mess up a flat black paint job. and having it even doesn't really matter because its flat black.. it will never look even if it was even.
my main concern is how much sanding i should do.. i have 400 grit sand paper.. is JUST scuffing it up good enough? or do i need to make sure all the clear coat is gone?
07-03-2006, 01:01 PM
#22
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RE: Is anyone good with painting with the rattle spray paint can?
I paint for a living so here goes. NO, you do not have to remove the clear coat. If anything it is a buffer for your new product to not "eat" into the old paint. It you sand through the clear and into the "base coat" you may get wrinkling or bullseyes around the area sanded. Use a degreaser FIRST. You do not want to sand the wax into the finish. Use a chemical cleaner then water, then wet sand with 400 grit. You will be hard pressed to get an even spray with cans on the hood area as it is much larger than some bumper. As far as the heat, you have it coming from inside and out, again not like a bumper. Not to mention it is ALWAYS on top getting beaten by the sun. It should only be like a couple hundred bucks to get it right. Me, I would paint the entire hood to eliminate a decal looking job from the ridge. I would prep the whole hood, scoop off, mask and spray the stripes. Unmask the stripes and paint the entire hood with clear coat. It will be smooth, even, and last forever. Rustoleum is good for tricycles and railing, but the hood of your baby...why would you do that? Good luck. Ever hear of "Pay me now or pay me later."? You will with spray cans! Just my professional opinion...like you asked.
ps. If you do take the cheap, sloppy way out, make sure you spray the entire length and go past the end of the painted area. Keep the can exactly 6 inches away for the entire length. Overlap your spray 50% on each pass. Feed the "wet" line and keep moving. Do not "sword fight" with the spray can or do some sissy back and forth spraying like you are shaking the can. Oh, yea. Let it dry between coats and watch for runs and don't forget to reshake periodically during the process.
ps. If you do take the cheap, sloppy way out, make sure you spray the entire length and go past the end of the painted area. Keep the can exactly 6 inches away for the entire length. Overlap your spray 50% on each pass. Feed the "wet" line and keep moving. Do not "sword fight" with the spray can or do some sissy back and forth spraying like you are shaking the can. Oh, yea. Let it dry between coats and watch for runs and don't forget to reshake periodically during the process.
07-03-2006, 01:58 PM
#23
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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RE: Is anyone good with painting with the rattle spray paint can?
just so you know you dont wait an hour between coats, 15, 20 minutes if its warm out an hour is really excessive and some paints could mess up waiting that long between coats, prolly not spray paint but real paint would
07-03-2006, 02:06 PM
#24
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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RE: Is anyone good with painting with the rattle spray paint can?
I know from experience that rattle cans don't cover or look as good as an actual spray gun. But if it works out for you. Then hopefully we can see some good pics. Good luck to you.
07-03-2006, 04:47 PM
#26
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wichita, Ks
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RE: Is anyone good with painting with the rattle spray paint can?
ORIGINAL: GreyStang
Here's an idea, Try it with this stuff first!
Hell I might try it in the next few weeks too just for kicks lol that striping pattern looks pretty cool
Here's an idea, Try it with this stuff first!
Hell I might try it in the next few weeks too just for kicks lol that striping pattern looks pretty cool
07-04-2006, 08:59 AM
#27
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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RE: Is anyone good with painting with the rattle spray paint can?
ORIGINAL: Color by WEASEL
I paint for a living so here goes. NO, you do not have to remove the clear coat. If anything it is a buffer for your new product to not "eat" into the old paint. It you sand through the clear and into the "base coat" you may get wrinkling or bullseyes around the area sanded. Use a degreaser FIRST. You do not want to sand the wax into the finish. Use a chemical cleaner then water, then wet sand with 400 grit. You will be hard pressed to get an even spray with cans on the hood area as it is much larger than some bumper. As far as the heat, you have it coming from inside and out, again not like a bumper. Not to mention it is ALWAYS on top getting beaten by the sun. It should only be like a couple hundred bucks to get it right. Me, I would paint the entire hood to eliminate a decal looking job from the ridge. I would prep the whole hood, scoop off, mask and spray the stripes. Unmask the stripes and paint the entire hood with clear coat. It will be smooth, even, and last forever. Rustoleum is good for tricycles and railing, but the hood of your baby...why would you do that? Good luck. Ever hear of "Pay me now or pay me later."? You will with spray cans! Just my professional opinion...like you asked.
ps. If you do take the cheap, sloppy way out, make sure you spray the entire length and go past the end of the painted area. Keep the can exactly 6 inches away for the entire length. Overlap your spray 50% on each pass. Feed the "wet" line and keep moving. Do not "sword fight" with the spray can or do some sissy back and forth spraying like you are shaking the can. Oh, yea. Let it dry between coats and watch for runs and don't forget to reshake periodically during the process.
I paint for a living so here goes. NO, you do not have to remove the clear coat. If anything it is a buffer for your new product to not "eat" into the old paint. It you sand through the clear and into the "base coat" you may get wrinkling or bullseyes around the area sanded. Use a degreaser FIRST. You do not want to sand the wax into the finish. Use a chemical cleaner then water, then wet sand with 400 grit. You will be hard pressed to get an even spray with cans on the hood area as it is much larger than some bumper. As far as the heat, you have it coming from inside and out, again not like a bumper. Not to mention it is ALWAYS on top getting beaten by the sun. It should only be like a couple hundred bucks to get it right. Me, I would paint the entire hood to eliminate a decal looking job from the ridge. I would prep the whole hood, scoop off, mask and spray the stripes. Unmask the stripes and paint the entire hood with clear coat. It will be smooth, even, and last forever. Rustoleum is good for tricycles and railing, but the hood of your baby...why would you do that? Good luck. Ever hear of "Pay me now or pay me later."? You will with spray cans! Just my professional opinion...like you asked.
ps. If you do take the cheap, sloppy way out, make sure you spray the entire length and go past the end of the painted area. Keep the can exactly 6 inches away for the entire length. Overlap your spray 50% on each pass. Feed the "wet" line and keep moving. Do not "sword fight" with the spray can or do some sissy back and forth spraying like you are shaking the can. Oh, yea. Let it dry between coats and watch for runs and don't forget to reshake periodically during the process.
I agree with the above quote .I also agree with the person who recommended"Dupli colour"...
I worked many years in collision repair and this brand is what many shops use on very small parts(ie wiper arms).It is good stuff.I am unsure if Rustoleum will handle the heat ,from your engine bay.The reason Rustoleum works on rust is because it is a soft paint that take years to harden(completely) at a molecular level.As a result it is fantastic for the purpose it is designed for.I even used it on a wooden cabinet at my place .A furniture restorer recommended to me.Great stuff.I am afraid that since it is on a piece of metal(your hood),that is going to experience extreme temp. changes the expansion and contraction of this ,may eventually cause the finish to become uneven or wrinkle.
I also recommend another paint used in bodyshops and it it's called "Mar-Hyde"...
It's comes in flat black(or gloss).We used it for cars with black bumpers(more common on cheaper imports,several years ago).The great thing about Mar-Hyde paint is that it expands and contracts with the rest of the surface.Check it out on their web before using.It is not to be applied on a real humid hot day.BTW ,when you are sanding use a Dual action sander,if you already have experience with one.In the hands of a pro a DA is going to give your surface a nice starting point for everything else.Watch out you have to keep moving it around or you get bullseyes(mentioned in quote).
Good luck with your project!
07-04-2006, 10:34 AM
#28
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Sarasota/Orlando, Florida
Posts: 614
RE: Is anyone good with painting with the rattle spray paint can?
Check this thread out http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
Go about 5 posts down to to guy with the orange dodge charger. He paints his car completely in orange rustoleum paint, with foam rollers though.
Go about 5 posts down to to guy with the orange dodge charger. He paints his car completely in orange rustoleum paint, with foam rollers though.
07-04-2006, 05:26 PM
#30
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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Posts: 210
RE: Is anyone good with painting with the rattle spray paint can?
I know that there are people who can do amazing paint jobs with almost anything,if they practice at it first.I do not know of anybody using "Rustoleum" ,however ,that thread says it can be done.I was thinking of how hot my engine bay gets,with a supercharger.I wonder if there is any "orangepeel" on those paint-roller jobs?
Maybe all those old rusted Mopars,from the 1970's are still on the road (are painted with Rustoleum?).
Maybe all those old rusted Mopars,from the 1970's are still on the road (are painted with Rustoleum?).