Trink5.0

I am looking to upgrade the suspension on my 95 GT and was wondering if anyone had some ideas or experiences with various companies. I was looking at Steeda's, MaximumMotorsport's, and Kenny Brown's suspension kits. Any advice or comments would be appreciated. Anyone tried MaximumMotorsport's coil-over kits?

WhiteHawk

Steeda, Kenny Brown, Griggs (griggs is awesome, costs a little more, but DAMN!), UPR and PST (I think PST is over priced for what they offer) -- UPR is excellent for the money. </P>


Whichever you go with, make sure you get and all around kit, don't mix and match unless you are an expert (which if you ask means you are not) -- so kits frontand rear are the way to go. </P>


I'm thinking about UPR front and rear -- I would love griggs, but with and ex-wife, 6 kids (three in college) and girlfriend....I would have to wait and save a little more.....well, I want it NOW!!! hahaha.... so anyway.....</P>


..also, UPR has a nice rear kit, also comes with an anti-roll bar, but I can't put it on on my '90 cause I have full pipes, I thought about getting the side pipes from Steeda but I can't put those on because I have Sub-frame connectors..... other than that..... UPR is probably the best bang for the buck when it comes to suspension.</P>


www.uprproducts.com</P>


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2002 Stang GT

well what im doin to my '02 GT is gettin some eibach springs lowering it 1.5-2 inches, Bilstein sport shocks/struts, Maximmum moter sport caster camber plates, Steeda bushing kit,spring isolaters,with some new goodyear F1 tires to replace to stock tires. I have not bought the parts yet but this is the setup im lookin at. If any 1 thinks there is a better set up or if anything is wrong with this please tell me i need opinions.. THX! <edited><editID>2002 Stang GT</editID><editDate>37811.0272685185</editDate></edited>

wei462

If you are just looking for a basic setup, look at getting some full length SFC, springs, and some lower control arms. The kind of suspension that get from there on out will depend on what kind of driving you are going to do. A drag set upshouldbe different from a road/daily driver setup. Like Whitehawk said, MM and other companies have really good kits depending on how you are going to be driving the car. <edited><editID>wei462</editID><editDate>37811.0601388889</editDate></edited>

2002 Stang GT

i dont want a drag suspension, just one for daily driving/ street racing</P><edited><editID>2002 Stang GT</editID><editDate>37811.1556481481</editDate></edited>

WhiteHawk

Absolutely drag is diff. from road racing and from Daily driving.....so make sure you consult MUSTANG shops(not just any shop...trust me, i learned the hard way) on what you need for what you want.</P>


I personally am now starting a 1990 LX project..... I want it setup for daily/road type o deal. Now it doesn't mean you can't take it to the 1/4 mile and race it every wkend....it just means it's not OPTIMAL for 1/4 mile if you were to get into it heavily..... SO.....anyway....here is my future setup plan....plus also I want a little cleanliness when someone opens the hood and/or lifts the car.....paint job i couldn't care less....hahaha...but thats just me</P>


UPRproducts - Front end kit, Chrome moly steel, silver powder coated K-Member, tubular A-arms, poly-bushings, coil-over kits and I'm still thinking about the spring rates (gotta think alot about spring rates) - thats about 700 bucks...then I'm going with the tokico illumina series - 500bucks(which i doubt I'll need that much adjustment, but in case i change my mind or for that 1/4mile wknd warrior that bursts out of me every now and then) - then for the rear....it's UPR again... double adjustable uppers, adjustable lowers, coil overs and solid/moveable bushings and a bar for 600 bucks(to which I'm going to have to go with turndowns...not that i have a problem with LOUD, but my association may not like it...hahahaha)...I already have Sub-frame connectors from Kenny brown with the cross section....so I'm putting in a street 6 point cage (350bucks cause i want it welded, but dont have the means to do it myself)....the kind that doesnt' interfere with the seat when you get in. ---- OH...yes and Caster/Camber plates....VERY important in a mustang -- about 150bucks --- tower brace about 175 (polished) and that should take care of what I want suspension wise. After I added the Sub-frame connectors I noted a big difference...I can only imagine after I do all that how it's going to feel.....oh man that's wood material hahahahaha...</P>

2002 Stang GT

that sounds expensive, but if u have the money u should go to www.stangsuspension.com and get the road and track kit which comes with everything listed here:
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MM Strut Tower Brace
MM 4-Point K-Member Brace
MM Full Length Subrame Connectors
MM Panhard Bar with Aluminum Rod
MM Heavy-duty Rear Lower Control Arms
H&amp;R Race Springs
Bilstein front struts
Bilstein rear shocks
MM Caster/Camber Plate
MM Urethane Pinion Snubber
Front spring isolators
Rear spring isolators
Solid Steering Shaft
MM Aluminum Rack Bushings, center drilled
Front Swaybar bushings
Front Swaybar end link bushing kit
Front control arm bushings, urethane</P>


A 1990 LX Mustang equipped with the Road &amp; Track Box tied for the 3rd fastest slalom speed ever recorded by Motor Trend. The Road &amp; Track Box includes the following parts. Items different from the Sport Box are italicized.</P>


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3rd best! the kit cost $2063 and i think its all worth it, but i cant afford this, my set up i had said in my first thread do u think that its ok? thx
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WhiteHawk

2002 Stang GT - that sounds like a nice setup (the one from stangsuspension) - </P>


...but no, there seems nothing wrong with your setup .... the only thing you may have a problem with is the 1.5" - 2" lowering. It may be a bit too much for a street driven stang. - My 90' LX is lowered by at least that much, but I'm going to make it higher due to the tires touching and the fact that unless I have 3 lanes, I can't make a u-turn without letting the rear break loose and spin around. Hard for parking lots and hard for drive-thru -- (other than that 2" is ok, but just NOT street practical which you mentioned daily driving).-- but you have a 2002....I don't know how far down you can lower it without having problems.....but for that you can refer toyour stang mechanic/suspension guy. -- (make sure it's a Stang guy that knows"new edge" stangs) </P>


I'm getting the whole setup, but I'm doing it in parts....for example. complete front end.....then complete rear, then roll bar, then strut tower and lower bar -- it's all chassis, but I figure two to three months in between each so it doesn't kill the pocket.</P>

wei462

I havnt heard a lot about the strut tower brace, do they help a lot or is it one of those things that would be nice to have?

WhiteHawk

When you take CORNERS in a stang, the bay can flex from 1/2" to over 2 inches (of course that depends on the stang body you have). the Strut Tower Brace is a VERY functional piece in the suspension dept. -