badkarma16

i know i am in need of a brake job, but i dont know how long i have til i need to do it. my rear driver side stock rims, have turned from silver-ish to Gold and the brakes are grinding when i come to a stop. im low on money so i want to know if i have a week or so. thanks for the help! oh. just wondering. how much would all four brakes be on a 99 v6? i was told around 250$ (just parts. i want to do it myself.)

BraMas

Your definitely pushing it if your hearing a grinding sound. If you have the know how do the brakes yourself and save alot of $. I just looked on NAPA and for 4 new rotors and all new brake pads it was only came to $170. Keep in mind this was all the cheapest parts for your car. so if your really strapped for $ you can find the parts cheaper

corvetteguy

Why not just take off a wheel and
look at the thickness of the inner and outer pads?
1/4 inch or more thick and you are good for a year or more.1/8 inch or less time to buy new.
If the rotor is not smooth and shinny like a cd, you will have
to turn or replace to get a smooth feel for the brakes.

badkarma16

hmmm.. thats interesting. i had a friend check the price with his discount at autozone. it came to 250. looks like im going to napa. i felt the rotors with my hand, and the are pretty rough right now.at the edges they are thicker, and thinner towards the center. i drive around 350+ per week. so im hoping i can make it till friday. i really don't want to have to bleed the line.

BraMas

Why don't you want to bleed the lines? It's very easy

Blckstng93

This is for a 99? I have a 93. Unless Ford changed the way brakes operate theres no need to bleed anything unless you take off a brake line.

When were your wheel bearings done last? If youre not sure id get them replaced to.

Your new pads will need more room so have a big C-clamp handy in case the caliper piston doesnt go back in the bore far enough for the new pads to fit over the rotor. Do NOT hammer the pads over the rotor if they dont fit or youll need new pads, again.As for the C-clamp, you may need it to push thepiston back into the cailper. Put the block of wood (i use 1" thick piece) over the piston (not in it) then use the C-clamp.Using the C-clamp on the piston directly and yourisk deforming the piston. Dont worry if the pads dont quite touch the rotors when youre done, they probably will a little.I keep a rubber mallet handybut only use it once the bolt holes are close. Once everythings back together and tighetened you should begood to go.

REMINDER: Once the calipers are off the rotor, use a piece of strong wire or a metal coat hook to tie it up. Dont let it hang by the brake line.

corvetteguy

To save money, I have done the rotors myself with a 6-7 inch
rotary sander. The ridge on the outer end is made because the
pads do not reach there. You can use 80 grit paper to grind
off the ridge. Make sure you also do the flip side also.
You can also run the sander across the surface to put a
cross hatch patern on the rotor.

You can do this only if you use a pair of calipers to accurately
measure the thickness of the rotor on the smooth surfaces
and find that it is thicker than the minimum. Usually
stamped on the rotor.

This should save you a few hundred.

When you use a c clamp to push in the piston be ready to
remove some fluid from the resivour as it will overfill.
Make sure you do it slowly.